Carven expands in China, opens stores

French fashion brand Carven consecutively opened the first two freestanding stores in Beijing recently, as it continues to expand its retail network in China since debuting in Shanghai last year.

Known for its chic, relaxed and simple Parisian style, the label offers a complete range of women's wear, men's wear, handbags, leather goods and accessories in the new stores, one of which is located in Sanlitun and the other in Shin Kong Place.

In September, the new stores presented the 2014 early autumn collection, which is inspired by the rebellious youth of the 1950s and 60s, "a mix of exquisiteness and street style", says Carven CEO Henri Sebaoun. The label's 2014 autumn/winter collection that takes its inspiration from modern art, was unveiled in late October.

The label has a 23 independent stores worldwide, among which five are in China. In Total, it works with 580 retailers worldwide.

Founded by Carmen de Tommaso (Madam Carven) in 1945, it was one of the most sought-after couture houses in the 1950s and 1960s, but the label became less hot in the 1980s and 90s. It was purchased by Sebaoun in 2008.

"I was attracted by its history and heritage. Madame Carven had a very contemporary vision during her time and I wish to do the same," Sebaoun says.

He didn't want to go through the brand's archives, but instead imagined, "what kind of fashion a 35-year-old modern woman would want at the moment". In 2009, Sebaoun hired the well-known designer Guillaume Henry as the brand's creative director, and soon the business started to boom as a ready-to-wear label with its modern approach.

"I didn't position it as a luxury brand. I see it as a creative and accessible brand," Sebaoun says.

Where the brand did retain in its DNA, was in the matter of detail. Carven's high design and manufacturing standards remained, he adds.

"There is not one detail in our products that is unnecessary. We pay just as much attention to the interior as to the outside. It has to look perfect both on the wearer and on the hanger," he says. "The Americans coined the word 'contemporary design', which is exactly what Carven is doing."

Carven has been spotted on a string of celebrities - Anne Hathaway, Keira Knightly and Alexa Chung, to name a few.

"The only marketing strategy is that we always seek to surprise the customers with amazing designs. Creativity is the key," he says.

Since the first store opened in Shanghai last year, it has seen a double-digit growth monthly, he adds.

"We will take the next step in China depending on the performance of the existing stores," he says. "I hope we are still at the start of our expansion plan."

Henry, who moves to Nina Ricci in January, will remain with Carven until this month, according to news reports.

sunyuanqing@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily USA 11/25/2014 page9)