Italy's fashion brands have Chinese connection

Immigrants from Wenzhou collaborate with local counterparts to transform clothing business

By WANG MINGJIE and DJ CLARK in Prato, Italy | China Daily Global | Updated: 2024-01-30 10:01
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Chinese women make fast fashion garments at a workshop in Prato. DJ CLARK/CHINA DAILY

The Chinese in Italy are not solely engaging in fast fashion or manufacturing for Italian brands. Some individuals have managed to break the glass ceiling and ascended to the upper echelons of Italian design.

Xu Yuejuan represents a striking departure from the prevalent perception of native Chinese involvement in the Italian fashion industry, which often revolves around fast fashion, assembly-line production, long work hours and cheap labor.

Xu has become the first native Chinese member of the esteemed Milan Fashion Club. Her fashion label, Delves-JK, is now mentioned in the same breath as industry icons such as Armani, Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton.

However, Xu's journey to the top tier of Italian design was not without its challenges, as she encountered bias along the way.

"When people see me, they often remark, 'You are not Italian', as if assuming that European designers are inherently superior," she said.

"There was a prevailing bias within the fashion industry that Chinese designers were only capable of imitation and copying. The perception was that our strengths lay primarily in replicating the work of others."

Xu emphasized the significance of originality in gaining recognition from European counterparts, saying: "When you create something unique and authentic, Europeans will undoubtedly acknowledge it. The key lies in your originality."

Xu also believes prioritizing quality is paramount.

"It is through maintaining impeccable quality within your brand that your reputation can endure and thrive over time," she said.

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