Sour grapes for Beijing's wine drinkers

Robert Louis Stevenson is often and fondly attributed to saying: "Wine is bottled poetry."

Indeed, nothing quite matches the true feeling of relaxation that arises as you uncork the bottle; the evocative colors splashing into the glass as the liquid is poured; and that exquisite first sip - all but confirming that wine truly is the drink of the gods.

This, of course, makes it all the worse when you discover, by smell and taste if not before, that the plentiful crimson nectar that you purchased in good faith is faulty.