Voices

Pollution puts brakes on pedal power

By Andrew Livingstone (China Daily)
Updated: 2010-07-21 07:58

Flat as a mahjong board, the guide book begins, "Beijing is perfect for cycling." I'd like to respectfully disagree.

I cycled to work for the first time last week and discovered the hard way that Beijing is not perfect for cycling. It's a terrible city to cycle in.

After three months of trying various methods of getting to work, each longer and more convoluted than the last, I finally gave it a go.

I'd tried cycling to the subway, taking lines one and two during rush hour and then walking from the subway exit.

I'd tried cycling to a bus stop and catching the "rapid transit" - which was not so rapid.

I'd even tried walking to a bus stop and catching a regular bus, compared to which the rapid transit really was rapid.

But last Tuesday, I had no more excuses. It was no longer too cold and I'd been at my workplace long enough to know the route blindfolded.

So I hopped on my bike and didn't stop until I reached my workplace 45 minutes later.

I arrived dripping with sweat and my lungs ragged after struggling for oxygen in the soup of chemicals that is Beijing's air at ground level.

My co-workers commentated on my disheveled appearance and questioned my sanity upon hearing my explanation. What was I thinking cycling in Beijing?

How did this happen? Wasn't Beijing once the Amsterdam of Asia - the city of cyclists? And when did it all change?

The benefits of cycling to work are obvious, both for the individual and greater society.

The aforementioned guidebook is undeniably correct; Beijing is very flat. In addition, there are cycle lanes on most roads, often separated from traffic by a raised tree-lined barrier.

Then there's the health aspect.

It's not easy to exercise in such a large city, with relatively few recreation areas, and as many people work such long hours, it makes perfect sense to incorporate exercise into your daily commute.

There's also the argument that every cyclist is one less car clogging up Beijing's congested road network. Given I usually use public transport, I can't really claim that moral high ground, but it's true that every person traveling by their own steam is a person not contributing to clogged roads and polluted skies.

It's clearly not enough and more could be done to encourage cycling.

I wonder how many workplaces have a shower, so employees can clean up and change into a work uniform?

Or what about implementing a radical idea, where drivers can no longer completely ignore a red light, just because they are turning right?

I've lost count of the number of close calls where cars just turn, cutting off cyclists and pedestrians who, according to the lights, have right of way.

But would all this make a real difference? Would people rediscover their bikes? Unfortunately, I think not.

There are two main reasons I'm pessimistic about cycling making a comeback.

First is the pollution. You can encourage cycling all you like, you may be able to stop drivers ignoring cyclists when turning, and you could pay even more attention to bicycle lanes, but when a cyclist arrives at work feeling like he or she has smoked a pack of cigarettes, they're not going to want to continue.

The other reason is cultural. In China's fast growing economy there is now a desire to have wealth even if it costs happiness. This trend is exemplified by the now infamous quote: "I'd rather cry in a BMW than laugh on the back seat of a bicycle."

It's an attitude that has taken root in China's cities, not just among young women, encouraged by the country's fast-growing wealth.

In my home country, I cycled four miles to work each day, despite owning a car, just because I enjoyed it more.

So next time you see someone cycling to work in the morning, give them a smile and make way.

As for me, maybe you'll meet me on the bus, or at the gym. It seems that's a safer way to stay fit.