'Knife-cut noodle' chef slices way to success

Zhao Xiping carries on family legacy as a fifth-generation inheritor of time-honored technique in Shanxi province

By Zhu Xingxin in Taiyuan and Chen Liang | China Daily | Updated: 2024-07-29 09:27
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Zhao Xiping displays his noodle-cutting technique to Diana Pukhova, a Russian diner, in his noodle shop in Taiyuan, Shanxi province. ZHU XINGXIN/CHINA DAILY

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The northern province of Shanxi, where the mighty Yellow River slices through the Loess Plateau, has long been considered as the heartland of cooked wheaten food in China.

With a culinary history dating back centuries, Shanxi boasts over 1,000 distinct varieties of wheaten dishes, each a testament to the region's deep-rooted connection to this versatile grain.

Among them, daoxiaomian, or "knife-cut noodles", is undoubtedly the most famous. The dish, which was first made during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), is a testament to the region's rich culinary heritage and its generations of skilled noodle masters.

In 2008, the technique behind the dish was added to the national list of intangible cultural heritage.

Zhao Xiping, 43, is a fifth-generation inheritor of Zhao Laoqi's knife-cut noodles legacy. Zhao Xiping honed his skills from a young age, learning the secrets of this treasured craft from his father in Datong, Shanxi, where the first Zhao Laoqi noodle shop opened.

When he was 18, he decided to become a professional noodlemaker. Armed with expertise garnered from his ancestors, he ventured to Taiyuan, the provincial capital, in 2004 to bring the family's brand to more diners.

"In Shanxi, every family knows how to make knife-cut noodles," Zhao said. "Our family's recipe originated in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). It's a legacy passed down through generations, and now it's in my hands."

Every day starting at 11 am, Zhao Laoqi's Knife-cut Noodle Shop comes alive and is soon bustling with activity.

Zhao Xiping and members of his team are busy working in the kitchen. With each slice, as thin as a silverfish, gracefully arcing through the air before landing in the boiling water, Zhao's hands paint a mesmerizing picture of culinary artistry. The rhythmic movements of the knife against the dough, the little splashes of the noodles hitting the hot water and the tantalizing aroma of the food filling the air create an immersive experience for customers.

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