Last man standing

It's a Friday night and the port of Nuuk is a hive of activity. Passengers loaded down with heavy bags hurry aboard a rusty red and white ship — Greenland's last ferry.

Among them are an ethnologist and a few Danish tourists, but most are Greenlanders from the 74 villages and settlements that dot the west coast, a thin strip of land squeezed between the ice sheet and the open sea just south of the Arctic Ocean.

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