I visited Aperitivo after hearing the outdoor terrace in Sanlitun Beijie was one of the best people-watching spots in Beijing. I took a seat outside the open patio doors and found my view was blocked by fir trees and stacked-up tables and chairs. It felt like the forgotten corner of a garden centre. So I listened instead to building works, someone shouting down the phone about a foot problem and muffled music from across the street, which made me notice the absence of tunes where I was sitting.


So I moved out of the undergrowth to a place where I could see all the places I could be instead of sitting in Aperitivo a foot massage parlour, a CD shop and a tattoo studio. My pasta carbonara (40 yuan/US$5) arrived with so much cheese a Mongolian Yak's working week must have been solely for my benefit. But I did start to appreciate the range of characters that passed my table. I half expected a fight to break out about the property rights to the street given the amount of people who walked past looking like they owned it.


The bar itself is very ordinary. In fact during the afternoon it has less soul than a heavy metal band. Straight back red chairs and red sofas give it a slightly corporate feel. There are two television screens but I won't be rushing there to watch the World Cup. The drinks menu is extensive and the European crowd can tuck into some home comforts such as pastis.

Aperitivo,

Adress: 43 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District
Opening hours: Daily 10 am-late
Tel: 010-6417-7793