By Chris O'Brien (China Daily)
Updated: 2006-07-26 15:07

After entering the Candyfloss Cafe, I expected to be confronted by an old hag hobbling from around a corner, muttering curses and condemning me to a nightlife diet of Browns and Bar Blu. The arched doorway, climbing ivy and astrological charms in this place are straight out of Hansel and Gretel. This magical place is tucked away down a narrow passageway leading off Dongmianhua Hutong, near Nanluogu Xiang.

The bar is a siheyuan with the central courtyard showing off more greenery than Laitai Flower Market. A bridge crosses over a pond, there is a waterside bench that looks like it has been nicked from the local park and a statue of a demented rabbit playing the guitar greets new arrivals.

It is the kind of place, which inspires you to call up everyone you know and tell them about it.

The wicker sofa in the yard appears to be the finest outdoor seat in Beijing. But after half a minute a choice has to be made. The musical accompaniment is either the whirr of the electric generator above your head or sickly ballads loud enough to drown it out. But this appears to be the only obstacle to peace, because you can escape via a rickety staircase to a balcony overlooking the garden, complete with a shed stuffed with Christmas decorations.

To spend all your time outside is to miss the elegance and imagination of the interior. In the main bar is a sofa area, a huge collection of cat ornaments and a Van Gogh number. By this point, you wouldn't bat an eyelid if it was an original. The other yard buildings are home to five-fingered red armchairs, fireplaces and lights covered in silk fabric. The rooms look like they could play host to little cliques of beautiful people sipping cocktails but it appears is inexplicably common for them to be empty.

A beer can be quaffed for 15 yuan (US$1.88), a wide range of teas are 40 yuan (US$5). There is a simple menu but at 6 pm on Friday there was only chocolate cake or popcorn on offer.

Candyfloss Cafe
Location: No. 35 Dongmianhua Hutong (off Nanluogu Xiang), Dongcheng District
Tel: 010-64055775