If you have the preconception that Indian food is too hot to handle, one taste of the dishes created by Rajneesh Gandhi at the Portman Ritz-Carlton Tea Garden will likely change your mind-set.

Gandhi, the Indian chef at the Ritz-Carlton Bahrain Hotel and Spa, is currently in town for a showcase of his culinary feats through next Friday.

The 42-year-old New Delhi native has been with the luxury hotel chain's Bahrain property for 3 1/2 years. It is the only hotel in the chain to feature an Indian restaurant.

With China on the ascent and India not far behind, more business is being conducted between the two countries. Increasingly, more people are traveling between the two places and as a result, Indian food is starting to gain popularity in China.

Gandhi, who cooks only authentic cuisine from his country, said some people automatically assume Indian food to be red hot and spicy on the mouth and stomach. This is mainly due to chefs with less experience often including copious amounts of spice in the preparation of dishes, primarily to mask the lack of proper flavor. This is a practice the master chef is keen to avoid.

"I don't want to use too much chili as it numbs the palate," Gandhi said. "What I want to show is how the herbs and spices interact to make the taste more accessible."

Gandhi has had 22 years of experience to develop the taste of his food. He previously worked in Dubai where his wife and daughter joined him, followed by Kuwait. Since 2003, he has been in Manama, the Bahraini capital.

The family man is clearly happy to be in the service industry despite its long hours. He explained that as the occupation is so time-consuming, someone who does not enjoy what he is doing does not last very long.

When quizzed about what sparked off his interest in cooking, Gandhi claimed that his main inspiration was his mother. As a child, he was interested in the way that she prepared the family meals and always tried to help whenever he could. When the time came for the young man to embark on his career, there was really only one choice.

Now, at the top of his profession, Gandhi is still as fresh as he was when he started. These days, he spends most of his time contemplating how to improve Indian food and to make it more modern.

"Presentation is one key element," he said. "Most Indian food that people are familiar with is served on family serving plates for sharing. I try to think of something interesting without losing any authenticity."

The dishes sampled at the Tea Garden in the Portman Ritz-Carlton were truly authentic, giving a home-cooked character to the meal. In addition to the usual buffet offered by the hotel, diners can enjoy such favorites as chicken tikka and fired fish marinated with spices. The mild mushroom curry was absolutely gorgeous with fresh, juicy mushrooms bathed in a creamy tomato sauce. Pretty much the only item that seemed spicy was the Madras curry - a full-bodied chicken dish.

Dessert was also a traditional affair. The Shahi Tukda, which is deep-fried bread in thickened milk, rounded off the meal perfectly by giving a sweet touch after the plethora of spices enjoyed throughout the meal.

Other desserts such as Gajar Halwar (shredded carrots cooked with milk and nuts) are said to be a digestion aid after a heavy meal.

Since the promotion started on Monday, the Tea Garden has been given an Indian touch as the waiters are wearing traditional uniforms and authentic tapestries from the subcontinent hang on the walls. The aesthetics were provided by Vedas Restaurant on Jianguo Road W.

Gandhi's food was highly enjoyable. Diners who are afraid of the effects that Indian food may have on the mouth and stomach should head to the buffet at the Portman Ritz-Carlton for a milder, more authentic style that appeals to all.

The lunch buffet is 198 yuan plus 15 percent, while dinner is 238 yuan (US$29.75). Gandhi's dishes are included in the buffet.

Address: 1/F, Portman Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 1376 Nanjing Road W.
Tel: 021-6279-7166