(City Weekend)
Updated: 2006-09-01 10:51

From the soft white carpet underfoot to the steel cages behind the bar (and in the bathroom), Zeta is all shiny metal and moo-print, a decidedly hip outpost tucked into the Hilton.

The smart dreadlocked DJ spins drum and base under pink lights while patrons sink into cradling chairs and decipher drinks off Zeta's cool decoder menu. Adding to the bar's shagadelic atmosphere, attentive and statuesque fuwuyuan's sashay across the carpet, serving hotel regulars with go-go grace.

For the party looking to stand out, opt for the glass room a step above the floor, which looks like a conference room on acid. Enjoy the Cuban cigars and bubbly, and watch rap on the Hi-D flat screen (room minimum: RMB 5,000). Or, to stem the flow of kuai, fork over 30 and nurse that Qingdao, all the while admiring the handiwork of Hong Kong designer David Bufferi.

Unfortunately, the drinks are not up to the decor, though the bar makes an effort with fresh ingredients and combinations. Try the Zeta Mule for a spruced-up Mojito, but choose others with caution as even some classic cocktails leave something to be desired. Our recommendation for this bar? Linger and absorb the atmosphere.

Zeta Bar
Perfect for: Big spenders and hard partiers
Location: Hilton Hotel, 1 Dongfang Lu, Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District
Tel: 010-58655000 ext. 5050