This large restaurant feels like a dining room in a mid-range hotel; as such the food fits in perfectly.

Dishes are served buffet style, with lukewarm or dried-out dishes offered in a range of styles. Hoping for the best, we sampled crab curry, garlic bread, reheated pizza, fish, noodles and cold sweet and sour pork. True, we had the option of including sushi and pumpkin soup in the mix, but declined.

Admittedly, our choice of fare might be considered a little odd, but the paucity of dishes in any one style makes it likely you'll end up with a rather peculiar meal. The puddings, however, were absolutely delicious, including a fruit tart, chocolate gateau and coffee mousse.

On our visit, the wait staff followed closely behind us as we navigated the buffet, pointing at the highlights and even putting items onto our plates. Such added value, it need be said, is alternately helpful and overwhelming.

We were ready to chalk up the evening to an unusual adventure, but the RMB 98/person price tag failed to amuse.

Chef's kitchen 
Location: 1387 Wuzhong Lu, by Hongjing Lu
Open time: 11am-10:30pm
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 196
Tel: 021-34314771