Art for dinner

By Miao Qing (Shanghai Star)
Updated: 2006-12-01 13:48

The combination of French cuisine and a French artist's live painting made for a perfect night at the French restaurant "Allure" last Sunday.

The dinner, with a special feature on seafood and vodka, proved also to be an artistic feast for eyes and taste buds alike.When I met Michael Wending, the French chef who prepared the special dinner for us, he jokingly said that he also did some painting, on plates rather than on the canvas.

And so he did. All dishes I sampled in the Allure were visually splendid and classic, a bit like those simple oil paintings.Most were served on big porcelain plates and decorated with sprinkles of sauces across the food, which made the courses look more artistic.

More alluring than the presentation was the flavour itself. One of the starters, marinated scallop with vodka vinegar and Art for dinner beluga, diced fennel with olive oil, was a tempting delicacy. The flavour was a bit stronger than I expected due to seasonings like alcohol and vinegar. The raw scallops tasted very fresh, and the caviar sprinkled on the surface has highlighted its flavour and made the dish so irresistible.

Another starter, Allure's sturgeon with crushed artichoke,beurre "XS" with caviar, also had a fantastic presentation and a delectable taste. The sliced sturgeon covered with beurre and caviar was tender and mild. The fillets tasted especially good when mixed with the green sauce scattered around, and the crushed artichoke has added some flagrance to the course.

The main course was white gold caviar VS black cod fish. The cod was properly sauteed so that its surface was a lovely golden colour whilst the interior was white and very soft.The fillet was placed on mashed potato,accompanied by the asparagus and covered by caviar.It tasted fresh and rich, and the portion was just right for my stomach.

My dining experience at the Allure was kind of unique and romantic because of Allure's sturgeon with crushed artichoke, beurre "XS" with caviar the painting. The fancy French restaurant was new, sleek and full of a relaxing and artistic atmosphere. My seat was quite close to the entrance and just opposite two oil paintings placed beside the plants. And what impressed me the most was the live painting that took place in the centre of the dining hall.

Kenntin, the painter, comes from France and is now working on designs to paint on the hood of the Volkswagen Santana in Shanghai. In a conversation with him, I got to know the young Frenchman had also been a saxophone player and dancer. Such experience inspired him on many of his works; he said his live oil painting at Allure,which was a bit abstract for me, involved his understanding of music,
especially saxophone playing and dance.

Kenntin's other painted works were also presented at the restaurant, and he also pained on the tablecloth. It was quite interesting to see a piece of tablecloth painted with pigments, and I was lucky enough to get one at the Allure at the end of my dinner.

The special menu, named "A Cultural Mix of East and West," will be held at the Allure from November 25 to December 3,priced at 588 yuan (US$74) with a 15 per cent surcharge per person.

Allure at Le Royal Meridien Hotel Shanghai
Location: 789 East Nanjing Road
Tel: 021-33189999 est 7020



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