A popular dish for the colder season is the cappuccino. This does not refer to the coffee drink, but rather a frothed soup with plenty of cream and heavy essence of the main ingredient. Chef Burley's lobster offering involved a heavy soup with a single stuffed wonton. The wonton was excellent; slippery and of just the right thickness, it did not feel much of a hindrance when biting into the delicious shellfish meat.

The menu offers a main course prepared in four different ways - split and steamed, split and grilled, oven roasted then split and, for hearty eaters, surf and turf. The last option is made up of half a lobster and grilled beef tenderloin; diners will have to loosen their belts a notch after consuming the whole dish.

The oven-roasted split was very much enjoyable. A nice touch was the caramelized lemon that gave the acidity a sweeter tang. The crustacean was cooked just long enough, and evidently killed in proper fashion - the meat was juicy, tender and sweet. Animals that are improperly killed send adrenaline throughout their body as they retire from this world, and this chemical taints the meat after death.

The lobsters served are between 550 and 600 grams. This is just enough to fill the stomach without being too much. "They're just enough," said Oxford native Burley. "It leaves just enough room to want to order one more."

Dessert at the JW is usually outstanding, and the set offers diners a choice of any selection from the menu. The cohiba is a chocolate cigar and creme brulee served in an ashtray. A delight to the eyes as well as the tastebuds, such a dessert compliments the five-star dining experience.

The staff here is also impeccably trained. Grill restaurants are often less formal than their fancier counterparts, but the attention to detail and efficiency from the waiters make the 15 percent surcharge worthwhile. They have even been trained to offer the right wines to pair with the lobster dishes.

The property plans to revamp the Grill sometime next year, streamlining its focus on a few popular dishes. The current premises may be unimaginative, but there is little reason to complain.

JW's California Grill
Address: 399 Nanjing Road W
Tel: 021-53594969 ext 6455

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