Just by the looming Oriental Pearl TV Tower behemoth is a newly-installed park complete with artificial waterways and resident geese. If this sounds cheesy, rest assured, it's not.

To complete the other-worldliness of this verdant garden, a few classical European-style villas are being built within the compound. One already-completed building houses the perfect representation of this safe haven within the business district. The Golden Atrium Garden Restaurant is quite unlike anything one has come to expect from the city's freshly-flush property developers. The villa is tasteful, inviting and homely - a far cry from some of the hideous monstrosities that have spawned from the ground below in recent times.

In fact, the building looks like it belongs in a painting, a fact not lost on the establishment's proprietors. "We were looking to find a special peaceful place in Pudong," said Phylia Wang, co-founder of Golden Atrium. "This place, with the Pearl Tower in the background, is quite unique."

The restaurant owners were interested in a few key factors. Firstly, the surroundings had to be pleasant. That they certainly are. Despite the premises being located deep within the park, prominent signs on the main road point diners in the right direction.

Secondly, the interior had to be done to their satisfaction. "We didn't want it to look like it was done for the nouveau riche," the Taiwan resident said. "That meant no gaudy ornaments or glaring chandeliers."

The restaurant is wonderfully understated. The interior, which received the bulk of the US$1 million investment, would not disagree with minor European aristocracy. Simple, elegant furniture and quality finishing prove this to be money well spent, and not squandered on ostentatious ornamentation.

The art theme, which is the third leg of the owners' strategy, is central to the overall strategy. Wang, who is in the IT business, is also a massive art buff. Her refined manner of dress reveals her gentile manner; she is clearly a lady of exquisite taste. As such, her selection of the art work that hangs in the 140-seater continues her theme of simplicity wonderfully.

The top floor of the three-story building is a dedicated event space, with works on display by one-man-shows that rotate every few months. Until December 16, local artist Xu Wenhua's piece de resistance can be appreciated. The floor can hold about 90 people, and is perfect for basic events, business conferences or for wine tastings.

All this is jolly and good, but the basis of any restaurant is its food. Here, the Taiwanese chef delivers fare that is as grand as the building itself.

For 380 yuan (US$48) diners can tuck into a set menu offering braised shark's fin, deep-fried prawns with salt and pepper, and roasted pigeon. The bird is served slightly smoked, crisping the skin and impacting flavor without sacrificing juiciness and succulence. To finish the meal, vegetables and fried rice are served, followed by dessert.

Golden Atrium also offers set lunch menus starting at 98 yuan. Diners can choose a dim sum set or a typical Cantonese lunch of sweet and sour pork, kung pow chicken or beef stew, with vegetables and fried rice.

The restaurant takes itself seriously, but not too much so, which is a refreshing change. Almost as refreshing as the park itself.

Address: 36 Dongyuan Road
Tel: 021-5888-9525