Finding a jacket potato with cheese, beans and coleslaw in Beijing is rather like wandering aimlessly for a week without water in the Gobi Desert before bumping into a 60ft bottle of Evian. You are unlikely to stumble across Vineyard Caf by chance unless you are a relentless hutong rambler. It's one of those "hidden gem down an inconspicuous alleyway" places, near the Lama Temple.

Often after a few glasses of ale, I ignore my lack of time, money or business sense and babble on about opening Beijing's first true gastropub. Vineyard Caf is the closest thing to making sure I don't have to bother. The simple combination of light wood tables, dark wood floor and high ceilings ensure the main dining area is an aesthetic success and the menu matches the surroundings. Fishcakes and moussaka are rarities as is the aforementioned spud. Plans for more elaborate dishes are under discussion but the owner would be forgiven for resting on his laurels. It seems the majority of the tables are occupied every evening only three and a half months after opening.

A glass door to the right of the bar leads out into a small courtyard which has just been treated to the winter essentials, namely a roof and lamp heaters. The lounge area at the back provides the sofas needed to work through the wine (bottles range from around 150-300 yuan) and Belgian beer list. Delirium Tremens (45 yuan) was apparently the best beer in the world in 1998 and, at 8.5 percent, is fittingly named. Wireless geeks note that the free Internet works best on the sofa on the right hand side of the room I can't believe I just said that. And in a move guaranteed to cement the caf's place as the community lifesaver, fresh bread is now available to order.

Vineyard Caf

Opening time: Tues-Sun 11.30-late (food: 11:30am-3:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm),
Address:31 Wudaoying Hutong (left out of Exit C Yonghegong Subway, left again then first right, Dongcheng District.
www.vineyardcafe.cn.
Tel: 010-6402-7961.