(shanghai daily)
Updated: 2007-01-08 09:03

The recent opening of the Le Royal Meridien Shanghai has brought not only 770 much-needed new five-star hotel rooms to the city center, but also four adventurous restaurants that will undoubtedly become mainstays of the local dining scene.

Favola is the luxury property's Italian restaurant that offers a taste of Roma, the cuisine of central Italy, in a relaxed yet elegantly cool setting just off the People's Square and Nanjing Road Pedestrian Mall.

Other dining spots in the London-based hotel chain's second Shanghai property include Allure French restaurant, Le Bistrot all-day diner and the Cantonese flavors of Ai Mei.

The decor of the eighth-floor restaurant-pizzeria-bar is understated cool and Favola (Italian for "story") is more akin to a hip nightclub rather than a dining spot. The spacious 100-seat room is big on earthy brown and beige colors, a combination that works well to create the inviting atmosphere.

The space also features three private rooms, a chef's table for eight people and a center courtyard. The highlight is the 26-person wine cellar, a stainless steel and glass enclosure where diners can enjoy a meal and a beverage or three in a room surrounded by about 1,800 vintages from Italy, France, Australia and California.

With nary a sign of a ubiquitous chianti bottle hanging from the wall and with cool beats and such disco icons as Donna Summer and Barry White wafting from the sound system, Favola is definitely not the old-style Italian restaurant that Billy Joel once sang about.

To the left of Favola's entrance and far enough away from the dining tables is a food preparation table and open oven - both of the gas and wood-burning varieties. The open area affords diners the opportunity to get up from their table, undoubtedly with glass of wine in hand, to see how their meal is being prepared and ultimately cooked.

The pizza offerings, nine types in all, can be ordered either rosse (with tomato sauce) or bianche (without).

The pies, which feature such adventurous toppings as potato, eggplant and seafood among others, are of a Napoli style - the home of pizza - with a light crust akin to pita bread and delivered piping hot to the table, fresh from the wood-fired oven.

With the cold winter days now here, the vegetarian minestrone soup (78 yuan/US$10) provided an ideal starter as the Italian staple was thick with vegetables and pasta shells in a light-tasting broth. The homemade focaccia and potato breads proved a good accompaniment.

The assortment of seasonal antipasti (108 yuan) was another good choice as it provided a chance to try an incredibly-light egg fritter, some spicy aubergine, vinaigrette mushrooms and an impressive New Zealand pepper-coated ricotta that was neither too cheesy or overwhelming to taste.

The bistecca alla fiorentina, or Australian veal T-bone (220 yuan), with sauteed lemon spinach provided a serious carnivorous challenge as the meat was tasty and tender and more than enough for two or three to share.

Equally filling were the various types of pastas, 11 in all, with thick, noodles akin to the type found in China's northern climes. The tagliolini al pomodoro (118 yuan) was especially impressive as it was served on a bed of chopped, warm cherry tomatoes with a garnish of crispy basil.

Favola features an extensive menu that also includes rotisserie in a leg of lamb with rosemary, garlic and honey (218 yuan) and a veal rib eye fillet with olive paste and smoked pancetta (268 yuan), as well as a selection of fantastic desserts.

With so much to choose from, the restaurant has a couple of options that allow patrons to truly experience the tastes of central Italy. The degustation menu features a selection of antipasti, a porcini mushroom consomme with black truffle and parmigano gnocchi and a main of roast veal. Also included is baked calamari artichoke, dessert and coffee or tea. The price is 389 yuan (plus 15 percent) for food only, or 489 yuan with a prosecco and a glass of wine.

The lunch special provides an affordable introduction. For 98 yuan for two courses (plus 15 percent) and 118 yuan for three selections, the choice includes a starter, mains of pasta, pizza, fish or beef, and dessert.

Address: 8/F, 789 Nanjing Road E.
Tel: 021-3318-9999