When Beijing restaurateur Feng decided to open an eatery in Shanghai, he wanted to return to his roots, presenting home-style Yunnan classics like cross-the-bridge noodles (RMB 15 and 25) and salt and pepper fried Yunnan goat cheese (RMB 28) in a comfortable, attractive two-level cafe.

We sampled a wide array of excellent fare, including wild jizhong mushrooms with pork (RMB 40), made with fresh wild mushrooms imported from Yunnan. Deli fans will recognize the crispy shredded potato pancake (RMB 15) as a cousin of the latke, while Brits can tuck into smashed peas with Yunnan ham (RMB 16), a thick, flavorful take on the classic mushy peas.

Our favorite was the stewed beef with mint casserole (RMB 28), a hearty meat and potatoes stew with a peppery, pungent kick.

Southern Barbarian 
Open time: 11am-10pm. All cards.
Location: 1440 Qiujiang Lu, by Gonghe Xinlu
Tel: 136 21797634
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 126