Korean cuisine inevitably conjures images of barbecued meat, hotpot and the ubiquitous kimchi (fermented vegetables). De'All Korean Restaurant and Bar, which opened in early December, is doing something completely different. The 110-seater diner in the up-market Gubei residential district is offering quality, tapas-style Korean fusion food.

The term fusion, which shot to fame in California in the 1980s with the influx of Japanese culture into the US West Coast, is often misused and bandied about unnecessarily. Simply put, any dish which uses ingredients from different countries can be described as fusion. Proper fusion food, it has been said, is imbued with a great deal more purpose than simply putting a few different items in a dish.

The food served at De'All can be said to have this objective. The focus here is on traditional, authentic Korean flavors but presented in a trendy, Western way.

"We see ourselves as a high-end tapas bar," said Ranny Whang, the restaurant's coordinator. "We are also hoping to attract chic city girls who like to drink."

Korean food does not readily come to mind when thinking of Western alcoholic drinks, but De'All hopes to change this mindset. The wine list was an adequate ASC offering, with a selection of suitable pairings. If in doubt, chardonnay and pinot noir are some obvious choices that go well with almost anything on the menu.

Of course, if so inclined, one can always opt for makgulli, or Korean rice wine, for 68 yuan (US$8.72). The taste is quite unlike that of Chinese baijiu, as it is a bit sweeter and less potent. Women in South Korea are also known to add lemonade for an even sweeter taste.

Cocktails, such as a B-52 shooter and Long Island Iced Tea, are also available. Priced from 29 yuan, this makes a few drinks here more affordable than most stand-alone bars.

The gorgeously-designed menu explains the health properties of the organic ingredients on offer. Grace Park, the president of the parent company, which includes a few more traditional Korean diners in the area, is obviously a lady who has taken measures to preserve her health and beauty.

"I traveled a lot in my younger days, and I've tried Korean restaurants everywhere," the Seoul native said. "There is no other place doing this concept, especially not in South Korea."

The food was indeed light and tasty. Lunch consisted of three simple dishes, but highlighted the restaurant's intentions.

The vermicelli (78 yuan) was a healthy choice, and the freshness of the black fungus, julienned green pepper, tomato and sesame seeds was delightful. The tofu stuffed with crab was also very pleasant. The tofu was light but not bland, and the caramelized onions meant that no soya sauce was necessary.

The most outstanding of the three were the roasted beef slices. The chilled, fresh beef was served with three sauces, combining Eastern and Western tastes, and is meant to be eaten with ripe blueberries.

The restaurant is also offering a lunch buffet, with dishes such as broiled (as opposed to deep-fried) chicken wings, fried rice and abalone porridge, among others. At 58 yuan a head, the deal is extremely friendly on the wallet.

Address: 3/F, 768 Huangjin Chengdao
Tel: 021-6236-1907