Shintaro an all-you-can-eat treat

By Aubrey Buckingham (shanghai daily)
Updated: 2007-01-15 09:04

It can be hard to turn down a good deal. This has been apparent recently with the hordes descending upon the city's retail outlets to take advantage of the generous discounts being offered. 

People also enjoy a deal when it comes to food. Lunch specials and buy-one-get-one-free offers are standard ammunition for restaurant marketers the world over.

All-you-can-eat Japanese food is especially popular in Shanghai. Large groups of friends can gather and consume copious amounts of sushi, sashimi, and teppanyaki while quaffing quantities of sake. Often as not, this isn't a pretty sight.

Another point is that these teppanyaki joints can be lacking in the comfort stakes. Seats are often cramped and levels of hygiene can be cause for concern.

The Four Seasons Hotel Shanghai is offering an altogether different option. At 198 yuan (US$25.38), this is only slightly more expensive than most. With an added 15 percent service charge, the hotel's Japanese dining outlet Shintaro is promising good quality ingredients with actual service.

"We don't want to frighten people away with the price," said the hotel's director of food and beverage, Chris McGonnel. "We're looking instead to give the right value, the right price. We were successful last year, and we want to build on that and step it up a little."

Patrons of Weihai Road's five-star hotel will be pleased to see how far their money goes. The all-you-can-eat menu is extensive, offering what all other joints stock and then some. The sashimi selection is fresh, and their wasabi (green mustard) packs a kick. Its choice of soy sauce, a key condiment for raw fish, is spot on.

The teppanyaki beef tenderloin is good but the Australian wagyu beef version is only available on the a la carte menu for 380 yuan. This simpler offering is tender and prepared nicely. The black pepper sauce really stood out - thick and fiery, without the need to smother the meat in gravy.

The sushi here is exceptional. Much better than typical supermarket selections, the restaurant also imparts creative twists to the typical recipes. The California rolls, instrumental in sushi's popularity worldwide, are stuffed with tiger prawns, providing a crunchy and creative twist to the rolled-rice staple.

Diners can also order rice and noodle dishes to fill the stomach, if necessary. Shintaro offers eight choices, including cold green tea soba noodles, hot udon and special garlic fried rice, among others. Head chef Jack Tie, who has previously cooked in Japan, is not attempting to drop jaws with any of these dishes but instead is focusing on delivering flavor and quality.

A la carte diners would be wise to sample the teppanyaki foie gras. Goose liver can be absolutely awful if not done just right, but the hotel does a good job, nicely seared and soft inside.

Even though the price doesn't include the typical free-flow of beverages, guests can pay 50 yuan for a drink package that includes draught beer, fresh juices and soft drinks. Sake fans can also expect to pay between 45 and 1,800 yuan for Japanese rice wine.

The 59-seater restaurant is casual yet elegant. Although a wee bit noisy at times, patrons can still feel comfortable without the raised voices and kitchen racket of lesser joints. The venue has an agreeable liveliness.

The clientele here is a mixture of local and Western expats. The joint is also family-friendly, the food here providing the perfect treat for the kids.

The Four Seasons has been quiet the past few months, but it's now working on raising its profile again. Changes are afoot to execute interesting promotions in the coming months, and the wine list is expected to be overhauled. Up to 20 different wines are likely to be offered by the glass, giving patrons much greater choice than most other places in this city.

The Four Seasons Hotel Shanghai
Address: 2/F, 500 Weihai Road
Tel: 021-6256-8888



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