(shanghai daily)
Updated: 2007-01-26 09:30

Xintiandi has no shortage of detractors and understandably so. There are, however, some aspects that make it well worth a visit. One is the UME cinema. To avoid disappointment prospective moviegoers can first visit www.ume.com.cn to check times and the subtitle situation; the site has English.

Downstairs from the cinema there's the Crystal Jade restaurant that's never less than packed but always in a way that compliments its classy elegance. Then there's what has proven many a Westerner's favorite restaurant in Shanghai: Ye Shanghai.

Somehow everything that's kitsch, twee and contrived about Xintiandi works to this restaurant's favor. The upstairs with its bare roof, clean sweeping lines and grand piano along with Ye Shanghai's superior levels of service and cuisine create an altogether satisfying dining experience. Additionally, the weekend lunchtime dim sum banquet, 98 yuan (US$12.6), all-you-can-eat with a free flow of tea, is the perfect restorative after an excessive night.

Now Ye Shanghai has taken its winning formula and replicated it in Pudong in, of all places, the Citigroup Building. The setting on the third floor of this giant office block may be unpromising, possessing even less panache than Xintiandi, but once suitably ensconced thoughts of the surrounding bank rapidly dissolve.

First things first, the view: The city's aorta, the Huangpu River, is there loud and proud for all to see through floor-to-ceiling windows, myriad mesmerizing vessels, big and small, ply the waters. In contrast to other Huangpu views the third floor elevation means the whites of the mariners' eyes are almost visible.

The new restaurant eschews its sister restaurant's historical flavor in keeping with the Pudong setting. In Xintiandi, Ye Shanghai carries off the Oriental, Shanghai period feel with no small amount of aplomb.

The Citigroup Building restaurant's feel is no less Oriental and certainly no less Shanghai but it is very much of our times. The overall aesthetic achievement is exceptionally accomplished. It's a shame the same can't quite be said for the workaday office entrance, complete with that global caffeine pusher that will remain nameless, and the underwhelming lift required to get to the restaurant. One can't help but feel a twinge of jealousy toward those lucky Citibank employees having Ye Shanghai as their staff canteen.

The food at Ye Shanghai is the food Westerners imagined they'd be eating before they arrived in Shanghai. Maybe that was just me. It's quality, tasty, authentic Chinese food with modern touches without unwelcome surprises like intestines or worse still, bones.

Instead there are such treats as sauteed minced chicken with pine nuts served with sesame pastry pockets. These are flavorsome, easily-eaten little more-ish morsels. Then there's the baked silver cod with pastry, a succulent chunk of flaky fish on a light and airy pastry that may test the chopstick skills.

The baked stuffed crab shells were something to behold but then so were the dim sum. The ginger panna cotta with grapefruit and candy citrus peels, a seamless amalgam of Western and Eastern flavors, was beautiful and a fitting finale.

Aside from those aforementioned fortunate Citibank employees, shoppers at the nearby Superbrand Mall, those showing visitors the Jinmao Tower and those who work in the financial heart of the city must include this restaurant on their itinerary. Despite the grayness of the setting the latest Ye Shanghai will reward a visit with interior design art, a good view and great food.

Crystal Jade restaurant
Address: 3/F, 33 Huayuan Shiqiao Road, Pudong
Tel: 021-5878-5660