(smartshanghai)
Updated: 2007-02-09 10:22

Trader Vics'descent on Shanghai promised a new type of food and atmosphere: Polynesian. Overall, they seem to succeed with only the latter.

Upon my entry into Trader Vic's, I frankly did not have a clue about traditional Polynesian food except that it involved a merry pig roasting on a spit with a shiny apple in its mouth. I left with no more information on the subject than when I entered, except for that to supplement cet pig (which was notably not on the menu) there are traditional large scorpion bowls or sea shells full of rum. These are the main highlights of the restaurant, and at 130rmb for a 2 person portion the only item that gave you bang for your buck. The rum they used was fragrant and flavourful, definitely not the kind of fake "Jamaican" stuff one finds on Hengshan lu. However, I do not suggest ordering a 75rmb cocktail (unless it's 50% off happy hour), which although tasty came in a glass that only slightly rivaled the size of a thimble. Also, be careful where you sit: the staff has not been trained in inquiring whether you desire drinks, food, or a smoking section. We were moved twice before finding our niche (all of the above).

The food that I sampled was good, although it was basically Chinese with hints of American. The menu was a sea of oyster and hoisin sauces, spring rolls, bok choy, cheese balls on sticks, and other very un-Polynesian ingredients. Alaskan king crab cakes were disappointing (especially at over 100rmb for three small ones), but the beef tenderloin was melt-in-your-mouth cooked to perfection which somewhat redeemed its cilantro and green chili sauce that tasted like it could have come out of a bottle from Carrefour. Portions were fair, but not gargantuan.

In terms of service, all of the floor staff were lovely and attentive. There were many of them floating around in the cavernous space that is Trader Vic’s (its capacity is a whopping 170 pax), and they were dressed in nice long gowns that appeared to be a cross between Polynesian and local designs (like the food). The music was a lively blend that one could hula to if one so pleased.

The history of Trader Vic's is that it is a multinational chain of tourist traps that gravitate towards locations like Las Vegas and Disneyland. This is their first location in China, although they plan on expanding very soon with a tiki lounge near the bund and another restaurant in Beijing. Expect to dine amongst buoys, tiki torches, fake foliage, and stiff collar investment bankers who are in town for 2 days.
At over 600rmb for 2 drinks (1 small, 1 big), 1 starter, and 1 main course, Trader Vic's is an expensive way to eat Chinese food among tourists.

Trader Vic's

Tel: 021-5228 3882
Address:598 Feng Yang Lu near Datian Lu and Nanjing Lu