From its tongue-twister name to its charming taxi cab ads, Syzygy is a triumph of marketing.

This cavernous restaurant is full of kitschy "futuristic"touches, including heat-sensing table lamps that flicker when you wave your hand above them. Even the wait staff's uniforms-with a gesture toward B-movie, space invader costumes-demonstrate an offbeat sense of humor.

Happily, it's not all style over substance: we enjoyed an excellent beef goulash soup (RMB 21), a thin, crispy sausage and mushroom pizza (RMB 75) and a surprisingly sophisticated risotto (RMB 54). As usual, the problem may be location. Their tongue-in-cheek designation of the neighborhood as "Outer Pudongland" is sadly accurate. Despite the whimsy and the warmth, Zhangjiang Hi-Tech Park is still very far away.

The future of Shanghai may very well be in the suburbs, but Syzygy is a few years ahead of the crowd.

Syzygy 
Open: 10am-10pm. 
Location: German Centre, 1/F, 88 Keyuan Lu, Zhangjiang Hi-Tech Park, Pudong
Tel: 021-28984115
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 232. All cards.