(shanghai daily)
Updated: 2007-03-05 09:28

There is no doubt that high-end delicacies make Chinese cuisine among the most exquisite in the world.

While some more exotic items, to put it mildly, may not immediately appeal to less adventurous diners - fried snake or offal can often be a tough sell - others such as abalone and shark's fin are prime examples of sensational dishes that when done right are quite divine.

Shanghai Yard in the Jin Jiang Hotel is aiming to bring fine Chinese cuisine to the city's burgeoning number of gourmands. The Maoming Road property, site of the historic 1972 Shanghai Communique between the United States and the People's Republic of China, now features a number of exceptional restaurants that cater to almost all tastes. Shanghai Yard is yet another reason for food lovers to visit the premises.

One delicacy on offer is karasumi, or mullet roe (389 yuan/US$50.20). Popular in the Japanese prefecture of Nagasaki and Donggang Town in Taiwan Province, this is considered to be among local cuisines that are slowly falling out of favor.

"This is a unique dish that requires a lot of skill," said the restaurant's assistant to chairman Sherine Chen. "Among five-star hotels, we are the only ones to serve it. The only other restaurants that might offer mullet roe would be small private diners opened by Taiwanese living in the city."

Mullets, in this case, do not refer to the silly hairstyle of yesteryear but instead a ray-finned fish found in temperate and tropical coastal waters. Unable to keep for long after being caught, production of the roe is a tricky and time-consuming process. After the eggs are removed, they are first salted then desalinated before being shaped for four hours. The roe is then dried in sunlight.

"Insufficient skill can result in the roe being cracked or improperly pressed," Chen said. "Our chef has more than 20 years' experience in the kitchen and knows how to handle the final product."

Another highly-prized ingredient is shark's fin. While environmentalists may abhor the cruel method in which a shark is relieved of his fin, there is no denying the sheer joy of the fibrous muscle on the palate.

Shanghai Yard offers an interesting twist on the dish. Much like serving clam chowder in a bread bowl, the thick broth is served in a small pumpkin (189 yuan). The presentation is an attempt to juxtapose the sweet and salty flavors of each ingredient, while the clash of textures is more welcoming with each sip.

Unfortunately, the restaurant was miserly with its portion of fin served and the number of strains floating in the bowl could be counted on one hand.

Another dish that warrants mention was the steamed cod served on tofu. There was just the right amount of sauce to keep the taste simple without being bland and cleansing the palate amply for the next course.

Dessert was the ubiquitous steamed pork bun, but this time with a thick red bean soup for dipping. Although the pastry was a little too thick, the combination of bun and sweet soup made for a unique end to the meal.

Fine dining comes at a price, however, and each diner can expect to pay at least 300 yuan per person. This is understandable though, as these are fine ingredients served in a fancy setting.

Shanghai Yard
Address: 12/F, 59 Maoming Road S.
Tel: 021-6415-5959