Fans of Italian restaurant Palladio at the Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai should have no such concerns with newly-appointed chef de cuisine Francesco Greco. The Milan native took over the helm from his compatriot Giovanni Terracciano last month.

"This is a great property, a great company," the 32-year old said. "It's one of the best in terms of standard of work and the quality of service."

"I'm really excited to be here and also to explore this city. It is booming and the atmosphere is amazing."

The chef has been plying his trade in the kitchen since he was 14. Inspired by his mother who baked a delightful range of breads at home and still works in a bakery today, the young Italian obtained a Kitchen Services Diploma from A. Vespucci in Milan and has not looked back since.

Armed with this passion, the bespectacled chef, a rare sight in this city, has seen success with top restaurants in London, New York and Paris, among others. It was in the City of Lights that he toiled under head chef Alain Soliveres at the Michelin three-star Restaurant Taillevent.

The new menu will feature such dishes as braised octopus in piquant sauce (alla Luciana), Boston lobster tegame (a cheesy marinara sauce) and another vegetarian risotto, this time with sauteed purple artichokes and a spicy bisque reduction on Vialone Nano rice cooked with Parmesan, among others.

Last Saturday the restaurant hosted a dinner to celebrate the launch of the 2002 Castello Banfi brunello di montalcino. To match the wine and its more expressive 2001 predecessor, Greco served a wonderful pasta dish in the form of gnocchi with duck ragout and black truffles. Potato dumplings are often considered hard to do right and the chef pulled it off with ease.

The main course of roasted rack of lamb also showed his skill with traditional ingredients from across Italy. The parcels of artichoke and Sicilian tomato and eggplant relish made sure that the taste of the mutton was not overwhelming.

Palladio has consistently figured in the consciousness of city diners as one of the better options. With Greco working the kitchens, regular guests and newcomers alike need not worry that its fine tradition is being let down.

Palladio
Address: 1376 Nanjing Xilu
Tel: 021-62797188