It is the naive in continuing to hang on to the belief that quality of food is king. Tasty treats make less-extravagant surroundings seem cozy; delightful meals give suitably-matching surroundings a high-end sheen.

Truth be told, interior design is important, or people would all be seated on stools eating steak off plastic plates with disposable chopsticks. This lot does care whether a fancy design firm has been hired to recreate the Sistine Chapel in the bathrooms, or transform the upstairs dining area into the London Dungeon.

While a food purist may struggle with that idea, it is a reality worth facing up to. In addition to the usual picture supplied on the right, this column proposes to wax lyrical about venue interiors in iambic pentameter.

On 8 Le Gourmet is a fine-dining offering by HFZ two floors below. The resurrected French classic thoroughly impressed with its slick minimalist furnishings and the intelligent use of the iconic red color, not to mention the exquisite contemporary French fare prepared by Bordeaux chef Christophe Jean.

On 8 takes the concept up a notch. The space is a lot more futuristic in design and is reminiscent of the captain's quarters aboard the Starship Enterprise in the classic sci-fi TV series "Star Trek: The Next Generation." With its curved lines, dim candle-lit ambiance and large glass ceilings offering a peek onto Shaanxi Road below, this is the restaurant of tomorrow, only without robotic waiters and atomized food.

Which is most definitely good, as firstly service is warm in the sleek surroundings and secondly, the food is prepared by the same excellent chef as the more casual concept downstairs.

Diners can enjoy a crab bisque with hermit crab claw flambeed with armagnac (80 yuan/US$10.35). The poor crustacean obviously put up a spirited fight before losing its hefty arm, but fey victus - the meat was sweet and succulent and stood up to the thick, heavy soup.

The foie gras braised in red wine and Chinese spices (128 yuan) continued chef Jean's adventure in playful presentation. The dish is plated quite unexpectedly and is recommended to be consumed with a pair of chopsticks.

Monkfish is sometimes referred to as "poor man's lobster," but the entree of roasted fish with black truffle, chicken and grand armagnac jus (160 yuan) took on the lovely earthly flavors not often associated with the catch of the day.

The piece de resistance was so special it had to be unwrapped tableside - a gift of prime-rib beef grilled on wine vine (452 yuan for two). Upon disrobing the rib, the room was awash with the gorgeous aroma of meat and plant, drawing one or two curious glances from other patrons.

General Manager Yann Mandigou is an avid connoisseur and was more than pleased to suggest some Burgundy offerings to wash down our meal. Some of these were magnificent wines and can only be found in his restaurants.

Ultimately, the food was so good that it could have been served downstairs and still hit the right spot. However, it warrants mention-the juxtaposition of space-age decor with rustic, country French flavor beautifully presented so timely and so clever we might not even need robots.

On 8 Le Gourmet
Address: 8/F, Shaanxi Nanlu
Tel: 021-62552011