Kamikaze cyclists and scooter riders, rough terrain, the plumbing of migrant workers' huts and their welding sparks made it treacherous at best. Nevertheless, as it's between the Shanghai Daily office and the eternally hospitable Big Bamboo, it's a route well trodden by this foolhardy reporter.

With the completion of Plaza 66's second tower this mini artery has recently metamorphosed into a perfectly pleasant hazard-free street - complete with landscaping and broad pavement. Progress! This is China.

Accordingly, the southern end of Xikang Road has also smartened up its act with the opening of a slick noodle shop, a Continental-style bar/cafe, Carmens Cafe and Bar, and a modern Shanghainese restaurant called Lynn.

As many establishments in that area will testify "pay dirt" is an appropriate description location-wise particularly when it comes to lunch. Think Element Fresh, Wagas, Bella Napoli and Pasti. Now it would appear that with its winning formula of modern, accessible Shanghainese food in a classy and spacious setting Lynn has hit pay dirt squared. It's so good, so obvious and yet so simple that it's a wonder the likes of Lynn hasn't been done before, but of course, it has. Step forward Ye Shanghai, Fu 1039 and even 1931. Lynn is busy and big and a comforting din all but drowns the contemporary lounge music. There's a film set, New York slickness to the overall effect.

As prospective diners enter and climb some cool marble steps, a decent wine selection lining the walls, greeters welcome at the top of the short flight.

Guided round a partition wall diners are presented with a grand dining hall that looks somehow familiar and immediately aesthetically gratifying. Perhaps it's the dimensions, deep and with a high ceiling. The coloring is dramatic black and white with bold reds and light woods. There's a mixture of stand-alone tables and booths all classically set and during both of Shanghai Daily's lunchtime visits it has been packed.

Lynn is the Shanghainese-style restaurant that the busy Shanghai Center's environ deserves and, with hindsight, is long overdue. Let's face it going to Italy and eating Chinese food would just be plain daft.

The menu comprises many of those favorite dishes found in the earlier mentioned establishments, various dumplings, duck, minced chicken with pine nuts, soups and the usual suspects of seasonally-priced seafood. Lunchtime has set menus on offer with the 70 yuan (US$9.05) deal being the one to go for.

It affords four courses with the likes of a mixed platter: Smoked egg and caviar, fried fish, cold chicken; soup, double-boiled meatballs with freshwater crab; vegetables; fried rice and fruit. The Lynn drink, a stimulating combination of apple, grapefruit, grape and celery, is well worth the 20 yuan. Service is effortlessly accomplished.

Through April Lynn is offering a special dinner menu with a different wine to match each of the four courses for a reasonable 488 yuan for two.

On arriving in this fair city I was bemused, no startled, by the notion of re nao - bustling with noise and excitement - and how the Chinese valued this, above all else, in their restaurants. I bemoaned the lack of ambience but now I stand converted.

For the full effect of Lynn get there not long after midday but book ahead. Certainly don't leave it till 1.30pm when lunch is virtually over. After all, this is China.

Lynn
Address: 99-1 Xikang Road
Tel: 021-62470101