Magnolia affords diners ample time to appreciate the spectacular, spare-no-expense interior. While waiting to be seated, observe the cascading yet tasteful floral displays set upon rich antique tables.

While waiting for the menu, notice the fine table settings and majestic French-concession view. And while waiting for the main course, rhetorically ask how a restaurant could spend so much on velvet and so little on staff training. Most disappointingly, patience here is rewarded with only an adequate meal, be it the bland couscous with eggplant stew (RMB 88+15 per cent) or the overcooked duck confit with a soggy paring of lentils, mushrooms and spinach (RMB 138+15 per cent).

The meal ended well, however, with a warm chocolate torte (RMB 48+15 per cent) that will guarantee our return-if only for dessert and after-dinner cocktails.

Magnolia 
Location: The Mansion Hotel, 5/F, 82 Xinle Lu, by Xiangyang Bei Lu
Tel: 021-54039888
Open: 10am-10pm.
Cost for two excluding drinks: RMB 285. All Cards.