By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-06-27 11:14

There are few dangers so commonly trifled with in this city as meat on a stick.

The scenario is immutable - stumbling out of club land in the dead of night many drinks later, seeking something greasy to wolf down before heading home. The usual suspects invariably loiter about, transmitting their smoke signals and luring unsuspecting Custers to Wounded Knee, killing them softly with mystery meats of unknown origin.

Have you ever considered that your body should really be more of a temple? What makes you think that these youthful purveyors of post-pub protein are not cashing in on your desperation and plying you with tainted rations?

"But we like meat on a stick," comes the only sober cry from the back. Of course, plenty do. There are no such doubts with Southeast Asian satay and that delightfully tangy peanut sauce; no one complains about meat skewers at a BBQ. No, no, there is no point denying; food that you can eat with one hand is practical.

When speaking of practicality, however, it would be remiss to forget the Japanese. They have perfected the art of making otherwise complicated processes ridiculously easy. That is, given that you have fingers the diameter of needles and an IQ of 175. Has anyone managed to figure out their washing machines yet?

Still, some of the things our East Asian neighbors have done have been blinding obvious. Seafood tastes best when fresh; why not serve it raw? People like variety for lunch but lack the time to enjoy it; cue the bento box.

Yakitori is certainly one of those things. Literally meaning "grilled chicken," the term encompasses grilled skewers of all kinds - vegetables, sausages and innards, among others. How much simpler can it get?

Unless you have spent time in the "Land of the Rising Sun," you are unlikely to have heard of Kushiwakamaru Barbecue Bar. The natives, however, would be able to tell you all about it - owner Yamanaka Tadashi has about 20 outlets in Tokyo, where yakitori never goes out of fashion and people are queuing to get in.

In late 2005, his Shanghainese-born wife, Reiko, returned to her homeland to open a local branch in Hongqiao. "(My husband) is such a tough boss," she said lamentingly. "I thought he would be happy to see what I have done, but he's sticking to his guns and keeps on pointing out what I can do to improve."

If this is the case, a trip to Japan is definitely in order after a meal at the Pearl City restaurant. The meat was beautifully marinated in teriyaki sauce and other seasonings imported from Japan. Even the sea salt used came from across the East China Sea, making a world of difference.

The cozy 40-50 seater offers counter dining in front of the charcoal grills, tables to the side, or quaintly-traditional private rooms upstairs, the kind you have to take your shoes off when entering.

The menu was also well-thought out. Chickens are delivered live each day, and not one bit is wasted. The meatballs (9 yuan/US$1.18) are rolled with bits of gristle to give them a bit of crunch, while a whole stick of clucker cartilage (kneecap on the menu; 8 yuan) is a match made in the heavens to beer.

An open mind pays dividends.The thought of gizzard (10 yuan) can put people off but the texture is amazing; jalapeno peppers stuffed with cheese (15 yuan) may not sound appealing but are packed with taste.

The tofu dishes balance the meal. Again with their own secret sauces and recipes, each bite of bean curd invites a plethora of tastes and ultimately cool the 'heaty" nature of the grilled stuff.

The restaurant currently has a clientele divided into in-the-know Japanese expats and adventurous overseas Chinese living in the area. It may not be the most convenient of locations for city-dwellers, but local residents have a great deal on their hands.

BBQ
Address: Unit 18, 3717 Hongmei Road
Tel: 021-54225438