By Erik Nilsson (Beijing Weekend)
Updated: 2007-07-09 13:45

Seasoned hutong hounds would agree that Shuiguiqi courts the finest features of Beijing's siheyuan. Its name comes from an ancient poem, which translates as "water takes the shape of its container". Management says this line of prose best spells out the flow of the place.

Upon entering this antiquated establishment, punters pass through a virtual garden of potted plants to reach the courtyard.

Here flows one of the most unique fountains among those flooding the Gulou area's proliferation of hutong hideaways. A bamboo spout drains into an L-shaped frame molded of concrete and painted with floral flourishes. Its basin is brimming with swimming coy and jagged stones. The fountain flows in the shadow of an old tree, which shades the courtyard during the day. Across the yard, vines twine interlacing tendrils around a rough-hewn atrium.

Traditional bric-a-brac lines the racks and shelves of the rooms on the first floor. Couches, wooden benches and starburst-backed chairs offer places for punters to plop down and drink up.

Testifying to the fact that the establishment attracts a chiefly Chinese clientele, traditional tea sets serve as centerpieces of most tabletops. Lighting is provided by unique cubic, paper lamps adorned with floral patterns and wire-framed orbs wrapped in rope.

A narrow, rickety staircase leads to a rooftop terrace. This seating area is bordered by rustling treetops on one side and the neighboring restaurant's often-packed pavilion on the other. A barrier fashioned from stacked wuyanr-styled shingles fences in the collection of wicker and wooden furniture - including a swinging chair and wooden recliners. And seating here edges against rooftops, so boozers can rest their backs against the wuyanr-styled eaves as they toss back tipple.

Beers range from 15-30 yuan, while cocktails range from 35-40. The establishment serves manically minty mojitos and particularly piquant daiquiris. Hutong hunters would agree, the place is a trophy find among Beijing's watering holes.

Shuiguiqi
Location: 183 Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng District
Tel: 010-64034723