By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-07-20 09:19

Night clubs and discotheques often employ similar themes to employ a particular look; similarly, Brix 12 is styled to come across as a fruit bar, serving up invigorating fresh smoothies and salubrious treats to the "in bed before 11pm" set.

The dessert cafe is unabashedly targeting the female segment of the market, offering a refuge for a chat or a pick-me-up after the rigors of an intensive shopping session. The selection on offer is of an exercise in commercial preparation, prepared in the Pudong central kitchen of fruit exporters Chic International.

The firm is focused on supplying high-acid fruit from its own orchards to international customers, and has set up the first outlet to showcase the quality of their products.

Another branch will be opened in Xujiahui in the coming months, and more are planned in the city for next year.

Running the show for this new concept is Californian Steven Smith. The 63-year-old has a wealth of experience in the business, being onboard the team that opened Pacha night club in Ibiza in the 1970s, as well as, more recently, Zin Bar and Grill on Jinling Road.

"We tried about five times as many dishes before we decided on the final menu," said the San Francisco native. "After that, the main concern was logistics, but we've figured that out now."

Fleshing out the Brix 12 team is local chef Anthony Wang. The head chef was previously of the St Regis Shanghai under the talented Brian Tan before striking out on his own.

The 44-year old found himself needing to apply his classical skills to a new and funky concept. "Thankfully we did a lot of market research to see just what the end consumer was looking for,' he said.

The final menu should appeal to a whole range of taste buds. The peppermint and aloe vera panna cotta (35 yuan/US$4.60) is a real treat, calming the palate with a cold breath of minty-fresh air. The aloe vera adds a change in texture from the gelatinous cooked cream as well as the obvious health benefits.

Diners will be pleasantly surprised with the raspberry chiffon (42 yuan), a light, airy meringue with a heavy dose of acidic fruit. Anyone looking for something heavier can try either the delightfully-rich praline chocolate almond parfait (38 yuan), or the peaches poached in Spanish wine for two days (45 yuan).

Lunches and quick dinners are provided for also, and still pack plenty of surprises. Brix 12 have taken the ubiquitous Thai yellow curry (25 yuan) and made it into a light soup - fiery, creamy and appetizing.

In the house of seemingly sinful treats, the biggest offense would be to skip the mango risotto (45 yuan). Half dessert, half main course, the initial bite of wild sweetness will pop your eyes wide open before the savory Thai rice grabs the mooring lines and drags you back home again. Sadly the bland minuscule chicken wings on the side do not do the dish any justice.

Brix 12
Address: G112, 300 Huaihai Zhonglu
Tel: 021-6335-3208

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