By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-08-15 10:41

The Mimosa Supperclub serves the dishes ordered by patrons in three different styles - diners choose the type of meat or fish they want and three smaller portions are plated for a few bites of each preparation. It's a novel idea.

 

One of the biggest shames is that not many people have given Mimosa Superclub a chance. Although a fair number of people have heard about the innovative dining concept available since last May by Suzhou Creek, only a mere handful have ventured forth to explore the fare on offer.

 

It is hard to blame them, however, as the Pier One complex, also housing Monsoon Lounge and the Pier One Hotel, is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. As cheap as taxi fares may be here, most local residents are spoilt by the wealth of options in the dense city center.

 

Of course, those wishing to seek further pleasures in the culinary sphere will find the 124-seater quite a treat. To those who do not already know, the twist here is that dishes are served in three distinct styles. Diners choose the type of meat or fish they prefer, and three smaller portions are plated for a few bites of each preparation.

 

"It was not easy to come up with a new idea; you can't reinvent cooking, but we wanted to do something really new," says Culinary Director Stefan Stiller. "I thought, if you eat at a normal restaurant you get your starter, main course and dessert, but after three or four bites you figure it out and the dish isn't exciting anymore.

 

"My idea was to do something where you have something the size of three or four bites to keep things interesting. I did a similar thing in Germany where you have 12, 14, 16 and even as many as 20 courses.

 

"At first I thought about five different ways but then three styles is enough already - it's a lot of work in the kitchen."

 

Patrons can choose to order a la carte, or to go for one of three set menus, starting at 385 yuan (US$50) for an entree or soup, main and dessert, 485 yuan for four courses and 585 yuan for five.

 

As promised, presentation was intricate. Langoustine (145 yuan) came served fried with salt and pepper as part of a cauliflower and papaya salad; as a cute little tempura with wasabi puree and delightful tobiko; and also as a simple deconstruction - the shellfish was made into a little creamy sausage and given light bisque foam.

 

The creamy soups (95 yuan) were a delightful affair, each coming with an accompanying meat for garnish.

 

The imported Australian barramundi (225 yuan) was also a great pick from the menu. It was given an Asian flair, poached in coconut broth with shiitake and broad beans; the potato crust was a good way to lock in the flavor of the fish while the papaya chutney gave it some sweetness; and the hearty, fried serving with Bordelaise-risotto and braised shallots would have satisfied many as a full-sized portion.

 

The former Michelin-starred chef was also creative in his desserts. Watermelon (80 yuan) is especially popular locally, and his trilogy demonstrated the variations that be enacted for the fruit.

 

Without a doubt, the food is worth writing home about. Cleverly conceived and immaculately executed, Stiller's offerings are trendy and delicious to boot. The Molis Mao-designed modern-retro decor, featuring plush circular couches and large lava lamp-esque installations, also adds to the experience without going over the top.

 

It might bother some, however, that the restaurant is almost perennially empty. The gloomy location is one thing; the lack of adventure from most local diners is another. While the German kitchen genius admits his confidence has been shaken to a small degree, he is happy to keep up the fight and cater to the brave pioneers who bother to make the trip; all rumors of its imminent demise are completely unfounded.

 

The truth is that Mimosa may be a little ahead of its time - customers stick with the tried and tested, while the surrounding area may not be developed to its full potential for some time to come - but these factors seem to make the restaurant even more classic.

 

This is the Shanghai conundrum in a nutshell. People constantly clamor for something out of the norm, but very rarely do they put their money where their mouths are.

 

Mimosa Supperclub
Address: 88 Yichang Road

Tel: 021-5155-8318