(That's Shanghai)
Updated: 2007-09-05 11:27

Koyama's Japanese fare is what you might expect from the Hong Kong brand's new Xintiandi outlet: conservative, expensive and good-but not great.

The menu is a voluminous affair, with a dizzying, almost textbook-like presentation of the restaurant's seafood offerings. Overwhelmed by the menu's scope, we diplomatically selected the assorted Deluxe Platter (RMB 250 for 8 pcs sushi and 2 tuna rolls). The sushi was fresh but not particularly flavorful, and we worried about those pieces which arrived at or above room temperature. Both the toro roll (RMB 80) and the assorted tempura (RMB 75) were satisfying, though they proved far easier on the palate than on the pocketbook.

In the end, while this is a fine choice for an expense-account meal, value-conscious sushi lovers will dine elsewhere.

Koyama
Open: Daily 11:30am-12mn.
Location: Unit 6, 3/F, South Block, Lane 123 Xingye Lu, at Xintiandi
Tel: 021-5382 1125
Cost for two (dinner, excluding drinks): RMB 588