By Erik Nilsson (China Daily)
Updated: 2007-09-28 10:22

It's out with the old and in with the new along Yandaixiejie, where government efforts to spruce the street up have spelled the end for several establishments in range of the swing of Beijing's wrecking ball. While regulars of Houhai's hinterlands are grieving the destruction of longtime favorites such as Guangfuguang Forcing House (also known as Tao), it seems Beijing rarely closes a door - or a great bar - without opening a window - or another great bar.

As Guangfuguang heaved its final death throes in July, Liana 30 came into the world just across the street from the 600-year-old Daoist temple turned nightspot. And this new establishment is quickly taking Tao's place as the hutong hotspot of hutong hotspots along the lakeside bar street. Liana is conspicuous among the surrounding unassuming structures lining by the traditionally styled, massive mural depicting multicolored cod splashing in the sea that spans its exterior.

Patrons enter through a large, arched passageway painted with winding vines, in accordance with the nightspot's namesake. Most strikingly, this venue is much better manicured than most hutong hideaways. There is no sign of antiquity and none of the scruffiness that gives most such establishments that Lao Beijing charm.

Instead, the place has a contemporary feel cinched by the fact that its black plastic tables are inset with touch-screen videogame systems, including Go, xiangqi, international chess and other XP Windows offerings. These man-versus-machine contests take place from velveteen couches to bossa nova soundtracks.

A spiral staircase leads to the rooftop terrace, about one-third of which is shaded by a massive tree which sprouts from a room near the staircase and is adorned with hanging red lanterns and string lights. From here, patrons can catch views of the patchwork of hutong rooftops and the imposing profile of the bell tower.

Classy cocktails (35 yuan) and bountiful beer (20-35 yuan) are served up by some of the friendliest fuwuyuan the capital has to offer.

Liana's arrival in Yandaixiejie is a sign that new life is germinating where other establishments simply withered on the vine.

Liana 30
Location: 34 Yandaixiejie, Houhai, Xicheng District.
Tel: 136-2121-1978.