By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-10-22 09:05

One of the city's most under-rated restaurants quietly celebrated its first anniversary with a gala dinner just before the October break. Le Royal Meridien's flagship French fine-dining Allure has impressed in its sojourn on Nanjing Road thus far, and the meal was an example of why chef Michael Wendling is so highly regarded by those who have actually tried his fare.

A former student of Michelin three-star chef George Blanc, the Frenchman has been bold with his dishes that push boundaries while retaining the essential French elegance that makes the cuisine so widely accepted around the world.

While not reinventing the wheel, Wendling's offerings breathe some modernity into what can be said to be a stale hotel dining scene. The popularity of most dining options within five-star properties has tapered off slightly, but Allure has gone some ways towards putting invention together with industry.

A case in point was the lobster xiao long bao served during the birthday bash. Oozing with creamy shellfish and soup, it was essentially bisque stuffed into ravioli.

While the skins were a little too thick, Wendling himself laughed it off saying he was not Shanghainese.

There were no such issues with the rest of the meal, such as the sauteed cod (238 yuan/US$32). Mediterranean fare tends to be heavy, but this creation was light enough for a fish yet still hearty enough as a main course.

Serving wagyu beef in thin slices with a black truffle consomme was also delightful.

Much like the tres popular hotpot that everyone and his brother have come to love, these small strips of meat cooked quickly in the hot soup and were absolutely delightful.

The 770-room property is famed for its dessert, and the vanilla slice that came at the end was exemplary. Packed with roasted apples and served with a side of caramel ice cream, it finished off a tasty meal beautifully.

While not served during the tasting menu, it would be remiss not to mention the white bean soup (148 yuan). The dish, made popular by celebrity chef Joel Robuchon, is practically the new onion soup, and is packed with oodles of truffle in the emulsion.

The problem is that most people will not bother venturing to Allure. While not cheap, and with the ubiquitous 15 percent tax, it may put its fair share of people off.

On the other hand, the elegance and service make the extra cost worth it, and Wendling's food just simply cannot be missed.

Location: L/F, 789 Nanjing Dong Lu, near Jiujiang Lu, Metro Line 2 Nanjing Dong Lu Station
Tel: 021-3318-9999 ext. 7022