By Tan Weiyun (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-10-23 11:13

So different, they say, that in the interests of authenticity - and profit - growers affix metal tags to the crabs or etch a number on the shells. The numbers can be checked by telephone, SMS or e-mail.

Prices are high. One five-star hotel charges 238 yuan, almost US$32, per Yangcheng Lake crab. On the market, however, prices range from just 20 yuan for a tiny crab to around 160 yuan for a big one. Especially big crabs cost even more.

Next year the prices for Yangcheng Lake crabs will go up sharply as the growing area there is reduced to ensure quality and protect water resources.

As part of the East China Sea estuary, Yangcheng Lake has a special crab-friendly environment - clean, shallow, sun-drenched waters that promote the growth of the food the crabs like to eat; the hardpan lake bottom with iron-rich clay compels the crabs to move about to feed. This forces them to develop their muscular and robust legs. The iron and trace minerals give the dense crab meat a delicate, slightly sweet flavor.

Very quickly, Yangcheng Lake crab gained fame for what gourmands call "the finest and purest flavor of the entire crab spectrum."

"The taste of the Yangcheng Lake crab is special if you savor it carefully. It's a little bit sweet. Actually, the vegetables, such as carrots and cabbage planted around the lake, even poultry eggs, are also slightly sweet," Yang says. "It's due to the rich minerals in the lake."

However, he also notes that different parts of Yangcheng Lake produce crabs of different quality. "The best crabs are all from the eastern part of the lake, where the water is only two meters deep with plentiful aquatic resources and bountiful small fishes and shrimps."

The town of Weitang on the east side of Yangcheng Lake has a history of more than 6,000 years and draws hordes of crab-lovers every autumn. "It's hard to estimate but the figure is huge, and I'm pretty sure the big part is from its rich neighbor, Shanghai."

Yang says about 2,200 tons of crabs were ordered from all parts of the country this September. The order from Shanghai alone reached 500 tons - almost one quarter.

To find information about nice crab restaurants, click
Catching a taste of crab this season

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