(smartshanghai.com)
Updated: 2007-12-05 10:06

The owners of Milano are bringing a bit of Milan to Pudong -literally. By importing many ingredients straight from Italy, they aim to elevate home-style Italian fare to a gourmet level.

Indeed, with understated service and an elegant, if somewhat imposing, ambiance, they largely succeed. Our minestrone soup (RMB 80) was an inviting start to the meal, and Milano's mains are fresh and appetizing.

The pumpkin dumplings (RMB 100) burst with a sweet, clean flavor; in contrast, though, our tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms (RMB 100) was just average. Concluding an otherwise notable meal, Milano's chocolate ravioli (RMB 50) was unexpectedly uninspiring; put another way, it lacked the usual dessert-like decadence.

However, the accompanying side of homemade chestnut ice cream was a delicate, sweet treat that deserved to take center stage.

Milano
Open: 11:30am-10:30pm.
Location: 1031-1035 Meihua Lu, by Fangdian Lu
Tel: 021-38770885
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 330