By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-12-10 10:45

Shile isn't an attempt at creating what a Chinese thinks a Westerner might perceive as a refined local eating establishment. This is the real deal, made in China for Chinese, and it comprehensively debunks any notion of discerning, designed opulence and China being uncomfortable bedfellows.

The restaurant offers some sample set menus, but haute cuisine is the name of the game. Once the staff gets a good feel of what customers are looking for, the kitchen is able to tailor a menu to suit diners' nutritional needs.

As with most of these fancy Chinese restaurants, the focus is on using less oil, sugar, salt and absolutely no monosodium glutamate. The latter makes a world of difference as one does not end up leaving bloated, mildly headachy and anxious.

Starters were exquisitely prepared. The finely-sliced cucumbers are an exercise in the chef's knife skills, while the red-wine poached pear offered fantastic texture and intricate flavor to boot. The air-dried pork was similarly light on the palate and the fat suitably gelatinous, while the seaweed and shrimp paste rolls were simply the perfect appetizer - small enough to pop in your mouth and highly addictive.

In keeping with the healthy theme, the next dish was a double-boiled aweto and sea cucumber soup. Aweto is a fungus that attacks caterpillars which results in the insect's death. The fungus-caterpillar combination is then collected by hand for use in such tonics. Each item is cooked separately before being added to the soup, so unpleasant flavors have been bled off and only the healthy stuff remains. As such, there is not so much taste in the aweto or sea cucumber, but more of an intriguing texture. The goodness is locked into the soup through the double-boiling, and the combination of ingredients was selected to regulate body temperature during the cool autumn days.

An interlude of dim sum was served at this juncture, before a nice fillet of cod was brought to the table. While the fish tasted especially fishy, the carrot sauce on the side was an inspired creation that balanced the dish wonderfully. A few bones but that's fish. The noodles in fish soup was slightly frustrating. The chef had obviously boiled the broth for hours and taken extra care not to let the flavor go overboard. However, the end product lacked a je nai sai quois - maybe more salt, maybe a dash of coriander, maybe a touch of chili. It was a work in progress, but served its purpose as a staple.

Dessert of chestnut puree and a sticky pastry finished the meal nicely, if a little blandly. The nutrition-orientation was obvious and expertly done, but anyone looking for more vigorous flavors might be disappointed. After the usual eating on the move or at the desk that busy Shanghai workers will be familiar with the fare at Xiao Shan Qing provides a most welcome change. The surroundings and the concept are fully realized with the staff attentive without being unobtrusive. Set menus start at 488 yuan (US$66).

Xiao Shan Qing
Address: No. 1, Lane 599 Fangdian Road
Tel: 021-50339113

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