By Aubrey Buckingham (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2008-01-09 10:01

One of the hardest things to do in the restaurant business is to strike a balance between delivering a cool concept and serving tasty fare. A number of places have tried to do both but end up with only one of the two, with the end product typically skewed in favor of style over substance.

When modern tapas bar Zoco opened in October, there was as much apprehension as optimism.

On one hand, it was run by the same people who have made Casanova and Velvet Lounge (the Cosmo Group) household names and a talented young chef was brought in from Spain.

On the other hand, many doubts continued to hover concerning the restaurant's location.

While it is indeed an odd decision, at least on the surface, to open such a deliciously stylish space within the relatively obscure confines of an apartment complex on Julu Road, at the end of the day it can hardly be said to make a difference.

The importance of issues vis-a-vis location in this city is limited to ensuring it continues to be a downtown area; any further and punters hesitate to hop in a cab and made the trip. Truth be told, restaurants here do not exactly attract a lot of walk-in traffic anyway, so most people know exactly where they are going to begin with.

Once the Shanghai Grand Plaza Club House has been sought out and found, diners will appreciate the effortlessly cool second-story eatery. A suitably-dark interior creates an intimate space with high stools as you walk in, a row of tables (fashionably inscribed with the Zoco logo) in the main dining area before coming to a spacious event space flanked by booths for greater privacy.

Most importantly, the food is as cool and outstanding as the interior. Chef Mario Rubio Sanchez was introduced to the city by former-Torres traveling chef Willy Trulas (now with Diage), and while the difference in personalities could hardly be starker, the Barcelonans possess rich talent in the kitchen.

Portions were decently-sized, meaning a pair of hungry diners can enjoy a good feed with about five or six of the small plates.

Tapas is typically a casual, rustic affair, and while the menu does keep some traditional favorites, the majority of offerings have been given a slick, contemporary twist.

Fans of the older style will enjoy the tortilla (egg cake/32 yuan/US$4.40), a superb tien of potatoes, chorizo and given a nice lashing of garlic sauce, while the deep fried ham croquettes (42 yuan) offer plenty of bite and flavor.

The classic Catalan black squid ink meat balls and cuttle fish stew (48 yuan) was absolutely superb - the ink suitably viscous and the mince meat just as appropriately moist.

The more adventurous can opt for the modern selection, but these can hardly be said to be a gamble anyway.

The grilled lamb skewer (52 yuan) was infinitely better than anything off the streets (although that is not exactly saying much), neither too dry nor too heavily marinated in the Moorish blend of herbs and spices.

It is often tempting to go overboard with the rub, but the mix is complex enough to be effective when used sparingly.

The grilled asparagus with Parmesan foam and truffle and lime dressing (42 yuan) was the only dish that did not reach the same heights. The vegetables were overdone and the cheese clearly overwhelmed the citrus tang.

Small plates are not the only way to feast here, however, and Zoco offers a full menu with a nice balance of seafood and meat. Catches from the sea are a Catalan specialty, and between 128 yuan and 168 yuan, are reasonably priced. Meat options start at 108 yuan for braised beef cheek and go to 188 yuan for grilled Australian sirloin.

The word on the street is the mascarpone cheese cake with balsamic vinegar ice cream (58 yuan) is to die for, with carbonated candy (Pop Rocks) packing a delightful surprise. However, while the ingredient is not cheap, the kitchen could have been a little more generous when sprinkling.

Address: 2/F, Shanghai Grand Plaza Club House, 568 Julu Road
Tel: 021-6289-6889