Classical fare that makes the world go round

(Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2008-01-15 09:48

Western audiences will also enjoy the retro food that has since gone the way of the dodo in favor of low-sodium, health-obsessed dishes.

The Western set was adequate and filling. Starting with a cream of vegetable soup, the first course was creamy and well-flavored, if a little salty, sprinkled with a good amount of crunchy croutons.

The grilled seafood skewer was also swimming in beurre blanc.

The white butter sauce was again packed so full of creamy goodness that diners would be tempted to lick their plates. While the pilaf rice was a tad dry, all problems were overcome with a generous splash of sauce.

The seafood skewer was in fact grilled fish on a stick. Not an overly exciting dish, but nothing to complain about either.

With sauce like that, Epicure on 45 could have served luncheon meat and would still come out a winner.

Even dessert came with plenty of sauce. The apple pie was a highlight, with good chunks of fruit and delicate pastry doused in vanilla rum sauce.

At 98 yuan (US$13.50), the deal is a steal.

The Nanjing Road property's executive chef, Karl Beter, hails from Austria and shows his age and experience by not going for the latest fads and trends.

The lunch set clearly shows the focus of the 520-room hotel in providing business solutions and dining options for its target local audience, while at the same time giving overseas visitors an affordable and enjoyable experience.

Address: 88 Nanjing Road
Tel: 021-6359-9999 ext 4210/4212

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