Savoring Catalan, bite by bite

At Mao's Table

The other side of Xinjiang

New York City Italian in HK multimedia-container

As expected, the wine list was dominated by Spanish labels, thoughtfully categorized by regions. There were many choices of reds, with some exclusively available at Catalunya, and more than a dozen Cavas, the bright effervescent that I feel best goes with the fun nature of tapas.

After settling on a Raventos Blanc de Nit 2010 Rose priced at HK$120 ($15) per glass, I sat back and welcomed the parade of small plates that began to arrive. As we didn't have enough people to try the suckling pig, we had to forego one of Catalunya's signature dishes.

We started with crusty tomato bread fragrant with a rubbing of garlic and drizzled with olive oil, a colorful collection of pickled vegetables and thinly sliced Iberico jamon. The bread and pickles were delightfully crunchy, while the ham was tender and provided a nice counterpoint with its salty robustness.

Anchovies are one of my favorite fish, and the anchovies at Catalunya are long, meaty and drenched in olive oil. I found the simplicity immensely appealing, and it turned out to be one of the standout tapas of the bunch due to its no-nonsense directness.

Tomato tartare was another standout. Served with wafer-thin slices of toast, it resembled fresh steak and is accompanied with a side of foam scattered with edible flower petals. I liked the sweetness of the sun-ripened fruit flavored with an assortment of Mediterranean herbs. It elevates the often-pedestrian tomato to a whole new level.

The Bikini had such an enticing name that we had to try it. The small plate turned out to be a svelte and sophisticated version of the ham and cheese sandwich. Iberian ham, mozzarella and black truffle made up the filling, while the name comes from a Barcelona ballroom bar that dates back to the early 20th century.

As the majority of the dishes at Catalunya featured rich cream sauces, with a substantial portion deep fried, it was somewhat refreshing to arrive at dessert and dive into a medley of seasonal fruit presented like lollipops on a bed of shaved ice.

My conclusion is that Catalunya is perfect for those with a lot of time to savor a multi-course meal of seemingly endless dishes. And those with deep pockets.

If you go

Catalunya: G/F Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Road, Wanchai. 852-2866-7900

Average cost per person: HK$800 ($103)

Recommended: Tomato Tartare, Bikini Sandwich and Anchovies.

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