A kiss of Rome
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A lightly garlicked scampi with angel-hair pasta is among the delicacies in the Italian eatery. [Photo provided to China Daily] |
The short list of desserts includes the obligatory but far from ordinary tiramisu, which Sanna renders into a creamy cloud of bliss.
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The final treat worth noting is the well-chosen wine list, which can range to pricy vintages that you'd expect in a Kempinski-class hotel. What's noteworthy, however, is that there are 100 wines on offer by the glass, an extraordinary offering in a city where diners who don't want a whole bottle are stuck with the house plonk or a handful of choices.
At Via Roma, we were offered about a dozen choices from a trolley cart, and if a cheerfully offered taste doesn't produce a winner, there are plenty more available. No prices on display, so ask to avoid sticker shock when the bill is presented. But we found plenty to choose from in the hundred-and-something-yuan range - as well as divine drops we'll save for a special occasion, like winning the lottery.)
All in all, Via Roma is an approachable Italian gem in a fine dining setting that's been well worth the wait.
Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn
If you go
Via Roma
Inside the Kempinski Beijing
50 Liangmaqiao Lu (Road), Chaoyang district, Beijing.
010-6465-3388 Ext 4215.
Average cost per person: 600 yuan ($97) (plus alcohol and 15 percent service charge)
Recommended: Pan-Fried Sea Bass and King Crab with Zucchini Flowers, Sausage and Porcini Risotto, Braised Veal Ossobuco, Via Roma Pizza, Tiramisu.
