Alsace on a plate
Gilbert Wolfarth combines new cooking methods with traditional fare. |
Wolfarth trained in Le Cheval Blanc, a one-Michelin star restaurant in Village Neuf, Alsace in 2003 and 2004. Later he acted as demi chef de partie at Marina di Cavu, another one-Michelin-star restaurant in Corsica, in 2008.
He also worked in Canada at West, named restaurant of the year by Vancouver Magazine in 2010-11. His last job before coming to Beijing was as sous chef at Hotel Resort & Spa of St. Regis in Bora Bora of France.
So while his roots are firmly French, the chef believes that "cuisine is always open".
Wolfarth describes his style as "close to nature", and his philosophy is "to follow the seasons and working in harmony with nature". That is probably best reflected in the vegetarian dishes the chef makes, in which he uses many seasonal vegetables creatively to deliver both good taste and visual enjoyment.
He often plays with traditional French dishes and modern techniques with new recipes. He considers precision in temperature control essential in his work, which often involves low-temperature cooking, vacuum cooking and smoking.
"It's good to know the exact temperature and the right texture," he says.
He has drafted a new menu for Heritage for two weeks. All the vegetables are fresh and sourced locally. The meats are mostly imported, but he's on the lookout for good local meats.