An Italian chef finds Chinese truffles to his liking

[Photo provided to China Daily]

The price of truffles has been soaring in recent years, resulting in over-exploitation.

"I saw many local people go to dig black truffles in May and June, long before the truffles are fully grown in December," Perez says. "It will not only sacrifice the quality, but also damage the yield next year." Another reason to wait: Young May truffles sell wholesale for about 200 yuan ($29) per kilogram, while mature and fragrant December truffles can command 450 yuan per kg.

Chinese usually eat truffles raw, or put them in soup or liquor, but Perez wants to give more Chinese a broader taste.

"That's why I invented the truffle dumpling, which mixes the traditional Chinese dumpling with the unique black truffle," says Perez, who lives in Kunming.

Sabatino's truffle dumplings can now be found on supermarket shelves in Kunming, Shanghai and Hong Kong.

The process of invention has not been easy. "The current recipe of the stuffing has gone through dozens of changes," says Perez.

"Each time, I ask the employees to taste the sample, so (now) everyone hides when they see me holding a plateful of dumplings," he says.

Perez is confident about his next plan.

"The last seven years have seen truffles making forays into China's luxury hotels, high-end restaurants and supermarkets," he says.

"We will create more innovative truffle products to meet the demand."

His latest experiment is a collection of truffle cookies, which is expected to hit the market within the year. The cookies will be available in four flavors.

Perez also has an eye on the traditional Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, which this year falls on Oct 4: He plans to promote a truffle mooncake to add a special flavor to the age-old snack of reunion.

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