The narrow, stone walled alleys of Old Yantai 2017[Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

Yantai is mainly a contemporary city with many of the facilities and cafes I would find anywhere across China today. However, I have noticed how over the vastness of the country there are many local variants in architecture with Yantai being no exception. I was looking for original design not influenced by 19th century European styles. This I came upon by chance as I walked down from Nanshan Park. I entered a narrow alley leading to a maze of lanes centered around Suochengli Street. A compact small area, it was crisscrossed with byways often too tight for vehicle access, suited only for walking or possible horse transportation. The narrowness often reflected the need historically for internal defense within such settlements along with protection from exposure to winter storms. However, with its stone built buildings, whose walls and doors were often brightly painted, it was in a way picturesque despite lacking many modern facilities.

I spent days exploring or simply sat down and watched everyday life. Many residents were old as most younger families had moved out to newer apartments rising up not far beyond. I thought about the future, if any, for such neighborhoods while recalling examples of where I have seen successful restoration of older districts and towns across the country.

Many older buildings were brightly painted in Yantai 2017[Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn] A feature of such long-standing localities has been the food markets where countryside almost spreads into urban zones. I come from a large Scottish metropolis, Glasgow, where most of my daily or weekly shopping was conducted at large supermarkets. Yes, I would push a trolley laden with microwaveable meals! However, I have found in China that the market can be so colorful. Walking through vegetable sections there is an aroma of freshness from daily delivered harvests. At times I was unfamiliar with the varieties and again a certain amusement from stallholders as I would try to photograph the crops. There was bustle, particularly early morning, but not the pushing through aisles found in today's large supermarkets.

Evening scene of an alley. Night food stall in the older town. 2017[Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

Increasingly I could appreciate Yantai as a "living city" where people came out to mingle on the streets and pavements. I was advised to explore around Nanhong Street. I was not disappointed! Many outdoor stalls were crammed with everything from clothes, to spectacles, to mobile phone accessories and so much more. Snack stalls were in abundance with the constant sizzling sounds of grilled meats. This was not a touristy area, but an integral part of local life. Some alleys were partly covered but everywhere it was commerce, tailor booths, food, snacks, people. It also proved to be very friendly with smiles and even handshakes when I wanted to capture the moments with my camera.

Indeed, as I said, I saw Yantai as a people's city, a place offering a pleasant, often relaxed lifestyle attracting many retirees. Yes, I felt tempted myself! There, for example when visiting the remains of historic Xipaotai Fort groups of elderly residents exercised. Meanwhile, in contrast, within contemporary shopping malls young families relaxed and played in recreational areas so typical of scenes from today’s China. Such generational contrasts were there again with younger people congregating around and examining displays of the latest smartphone technology. However, in contrast, older residents would come together in the older alleys playing chess or cards.

My daily exercise of course would be morning walks on Yantaishan. Regardless of weather or season it was always beautiful. Below the cliffs groups of people sitting on rocks would cast long fishing rods over the sea waters. Meanwhile, others walked along the coastal trail or crossed narrow suspension bridges between rocky outcrops. Again, there were always excuses for me to stop and sit, maybe in a clifftop pavilion to watch roll-on roll-off vehicle ferries head to and from Dalian, six hours across the Gulf.