Trashing the path less trodden

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By Alexis Hooi (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-03-17 07:45

One of the best things about spring in Beijing is the number of hiking options just a short car ride away.

Picture taking in the refreshing panorama of the Huairou and Miyun reservoirs, or winding along the relaxing paths of the Western Hills - what better way to help heal the stress built up from another intense workweek?

As such, The Great Wall must count as the top choice for many weekend hikers because of its endless array of trekking possibilities.

With that mind, I set off with friends last weekend for a rejuvenating day of outdoor fun at one of the Wall's most famous sections - the Jiankou climb.

Talk about biting more than I could chew.

For starters, we loaded up on a hearty brunch of local farmers' fare or nong jia cai, deliciously washed down with beer. This was before we launched our "attack" on the Arrow Nock section, infamous for being among the toughest Wall climbs.

Forget the tourist crowds packing the cable cars of the Badaling section, or the tacky souvenir stands lining the renovated steps of the Mutianyu part of the Wall, Jiankou is the real deal.

This section is no walk in the park because there seems to be a lack of designated paths on the steep mountain slopes leading up to the wall fortifications, perched high on the mountain ridge.

Parts of the climb already point to its level of difficulty. There is the Stair to Heaven, or Tian Ti, precipitous steps inclined at up to 80 degrees. Or consider the Ying Fei Dao Yang observation tower, where an Eagle Flying Faced Upward is used to describe the incredible height involved.

Still, my ascent began easily enough. I passed through dry brooks and rest spots that afforded adequate elbow space for appreciating the valley views and crisp air.

But my breathing soon grew as heavy as my cramped quadriceps with every strained step I took.

Was it this slope under this Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) part of the Wall where a number of hapless hikers lost their way and even their lives in the dead of winter not too long ago? Yikes.

Worse still, after an hour of hard climbing, I realized we were not even at the halfway mark - wherever that was.

As I felt my way around the boulders and bush, I hit upon what I thought then was a brilliant idea - following the sporadic trails of trash on the side of the mountain.

From plastic mineral bottles to chocolate and candy wrappers, the recent garbage must surely be proof that avid Chinese trekkers passed through the same route to the wall remnants. Like the energy surge from an emergency power snack bar, I felt the adrenalin from this revelation of mine pump through my tired legs and shoulders. I bounded through the crooks and crevices as I kept an eye on the bits of rubbish.

After a few minutes and meters of exhilaration, I came up against the side of a dried mountain stream and felt my heart sink lower than the abyss of the gorge behind me: Spread out on the slope's gray-rock surface was the gamut of garbage in splendid, plastic form.

This was no trail of trash, it was waste washed down from the Wall above during the wetter months.

Obviously, countless travelers had already made short work of the mountain - perhaps through a much easier route.

Great, I thought. I would explore that other way on my next attempt. But I might load up on disposable packs of food and drink first, just in case I really get lost.

(China Daily 03/17/2009 page20)