Many falls, lots of smiles

Updated: 2010-06-08 10:16

By Erik Nilsson(China Daily)

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EDITOR's Note: "Home & Away" is a section about the life experiences of expats living outside of the major metropolises like Beijing and Shanghai. If you are such an expat and have an interesting story to share, please send an e-mail to expat@chinadaily.com.cn.

Argentinian Italian Alejandra Conconi says Heilongjiang province's frigid capital Harbin is perhaps one of the world's coldest melting pots.

Many falls, lots of smiles

The 27-year-old is fascinated by the historical legacy of the city that was in "geographical limbo" a century ago, when refugees from Russia, Jews, ethnic Han and nomadic minorities co-existed on this frosty patch of land near Siberia. And she's also intrigued by the modern culture's unique local character.

"(The past's) legacy is alive in the architectural heritage, influences on food - there are Mongolian, Russian and Japanese dishes - and culture," she says.

The Chinese-language student at Harbin Normal University, who arrived last August, says the location is ideal for her to learn standard Mandarin, because there is no strong local dialect. It's also a good place for her to teach Spanish and write for the Argentinian media.

"In terms of writing, I have a unique position from which to explore and understand key facts of the early 20th century, since many wars and agreements took place here among China, Russia, Japan and other countries," she says.

She points out that the strong influence of China's northern neighbor is especially evident in the nightlife.

"There are few bars and (they are) Russian-oriented. Some even have signs in Russian offering free alcohol ... mostly targeting the Siberians who come from cities near here," she says.

While Conconi says she enjoys Harbin's multiculturalism, she sometimes finds it difficult to understand the local mindset.

"The truth is that it's very different here than with the Chinese people I interact with in cities like Beijing or Shanghai, and even Changchun, which is just three hours from here," she explains.

"Dongbei people in general have the reputation of being rude and cold, compared to other regions in China."

She says she has found that the city's natives have a tendency to "almost disappear" after a few encounters, which has been an obstacle to her making many local friends.

And Conconi has been working to come to grips with the different ideas about gender roles in Harbin.

"I am used to a feeling of equality among men and women," she says.

Many falls, lots of smiles

"I don't mean that women are treated as inferior here, but I realize both men and women are placed in different roles in society and that I have to take that into consideration when meeting people."

But Conconi believes she has benefited from experiencing such cultural clashes.

"It's always a positive experience, because I came to China trying to be open to see what this culture and country was really like," she says.

"Sometimes, I feel a lot of confusion in accepting some cultural differences. However, in some cases, after the first shock, the experience brings me to criticize my own society, proving some things are just cultural - not better not worse."

And despite some character differences, she has enjoyed many interactions with Northeast China natives, particularly when visiting their homes.

One of her favorite experiences was visiting a rural family in Mao'ershan, two hours outside of downtown Harbin.

"It was very interesting to see the way they follow the seasons in their daily life, spending time with family in the winter, playing cards, sharing stories and making handicrafts," she says.

"The natural and delicious food they eat and their hospitality was most remarkable. Even though we paid to be there, they were pure hearts."

And she gained insight into their sustainable lifestyles when she saw them do things such as reusing cooking water to wash dishes.

One of the biggest changes from Conconi's life in Buenos Aries has been adjusting to average annual temperatures with a high of 10 C and a low of -1.5 C.

"The weather is harsh and painfully cold, but the interesting side is the diversity of winter fun and festivals you can find, from people swimming in arctic temperatures to a nearly full-scale replica of the Coliseum of Rome made from ice blocks," she says.

"When temperatures were rising and ice melting, it became so common to see people falling off bridges and on the streets, one after another. Most of the time, nothing serious happened, but you would see smiles all around."

She took a few spills herself, she adds.

And the chilly climate has also cultivated a heavy local cuisine that Conconi calls "generally amazing". The staples for most fare, she says, are potatoes, pumpkins, meat, corn and a few vegetables. Local people dry produce on their balconies after the harvest to preserve them for winter.

"The dishes are hot and greasy but keep you alive in the extreme cold," she says.

While she often encounters difficulties in her life in Harbin, Conconi says she's grateful for the opportunities the city has offered her.

"This experience has provided chances - entering local people's homes and lives, and living in an international dormitory surrounded by people from the region - that have given me a unique approach to learning about human beings and culture that I believe make me a better person."