Beating the heat
3. Slice of Russia
About half an hour outside downtown Harbin is a place called Volgar Manor, where you'll be forgiven for believing you are in Russia. It has Russian entertainment, Russian food, Russian baths, Russian dachas, etc. But the 30-something buildings, constructed in exquisite and multifarious Russian styles, house stories galore. Most are recreations of historical structures that used to exist in Harbin or Russia but are sadly no longer extant.
Take St. Nicholas Church. Built in the late 19th century, it was the biggest landmark in Harbin until Red Guards tore it down in 1966.
Now the wooden structure stands in this 60-hectare theme park by a quiet river. Then there is the Miniature Restaurant, the original of which was built on Sun Island in 1926 and was destroyed by a fire in 1997.
The same-size replicas, now housing restaurants, hotels and an art gallery, are spread out among a fairytale setting of verdant greens and flowing water. In the summer, the glow of the sun bounces off leaves and roofs, attracting hordes of wedding photo takers and vacationers.
Try the khleb, Russian for "bread", what Harbinians call lie ba. It is a big lump that could scare and surprise people from other parts of the country. (At its peak, Russians accounted for half of the city's multinational population and have left a rich gastronomic and architectural legacy.)
Another import from Russian cuisine is red sausage, which is wildly distinct from sausages anywhere else in China. For authentic Chinese food, don't miss the northeastern stew, which is Manchurian in origin.
A clear sign of Russian emigrants' influence is that the people of Harbin love beer. Harbin is the first Chinese city to brew and ferment "liquid bread". There is an endless array of bars and pubs where you can drink beer in the same way that Parisians drink coffee on the sidewalk.
4. Tigers
Get up close and personal with the Northeast tiger - aka the Siberian tiger - at Heilongjiang Northeast Tiger Forest Park.
The world's largest breeding base of this endangered species had only eight tigers to start with in the late 1980s and now has grown to accommodate 800. You can ride a specially outfitted vehicle where you are kept in captivity while the tigers roam free. Just think that, given the destruction of primitive forests, there is little chance you'll encounter a real tiger in the wilderness.
The former royal hunting ground has amenities for not only hunting but also for vacationing. You can also refresh your knowledge of the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234), when ancestors of the Manchu, fighting such Han generals as Yue Fei, were commemorated.
5. Wetlands
Last but perhaps most important, visit the vast stretches of wetlands. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of downtown are 125,000 hectares of wetlands, which could be Harbin's greatest ecological resource.
Not in plain view, yet within easy access - even by public transport - the wetlands offer unvarnished views of Mother Nature in their watery and shimmering splendor.
You can take a cruise along the Songhua River with a dozen choices of vessels, from luxury steamboats to double-paddle fishing canoes. Or you can take the cross-river cable car, glide from a balloon or bike along the paved roads.
