NEW YORK - New York on Tuesday became the first city in the nation to ban
artery-clogging trans fats at restaurants, leading the charge to limit
consumption of an ingredient linked to heart disease and used in everything from
french fries to pizza dough to pancake mix.
H. Kenneth Woods, chef and
owner of Sylvia's restaurant, cooks southern fried chicken using a soy
bean oil that doesn't contain trans fats in this Friday, Sept. 29, 2006
file in New York's Harlem neighborhood. [AP/file]
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In a city where eating out is a major form of activity - either for fun
or out of hectic necessity - many New Yorkers were all for the ban, saying
that health concerns were more important than fears of Big Brother supervising
their stomachs.
"I don't care about what might be politically correct and what's not," said
Murray Bader, nursing a cup of coffee at Dunkin' Donuts on Tuesday morning. "I
want to live longer!"
The 72-year-old Manhattan resident called the ban a "wakeup call" for a
public often unaware of the risks of artificial fats. "This stuff clogs up your
vessels," he said. "When it comes to health, we only have one life."
Toni Lewis, catching a quick dinner at McDonalds before her child's piano
lesson on the eve of the vote, acknowledged that yes, it might be going too far
for the city to tell people what they can and can't put into their stomachs.
But, she added: "I welcome the intrusion."
"This is New York," she said. "People eat out a lot. We don't have a choice.
We need someone to make it a healthier proposition."
Trans fats are believed harmful in a number of ways, with health authorities
saying they clearly contributes to heart disease. Studies have shown they raise
bad cholesterol and lower the good kind. Partially hydrogenated vegetable oil, a
common form of trans fats, is used for frying and baking and turns up in a host
of processed foods: cookies, pizza dough, crackers and pre-made blends like
pancake mix.
"It's basically a slow form of poison," says David Katz, director of the Yale
Prevention Research Center. "I applaud New York City and frankly, I think there
should be a nationwide ban."
Not everyone agrees with Katz - he's gotten angry e-mails calling him
and colleagues the "food police" and saying, "If I want to eat trans fats,
that's my inalienable right." To which he responds: "Would you want the burden
of asking your restaurant whether there's lead in the food? Whether there's
arsenic in the bread? For all I know, maybe arsenic makes bread more crusty. But
it's poison."
Some industry representatives were not happy. E. Charles Hunt, executive vice
president of the New York State Restaurant Association, said the city had
overstepped its authority by ordering restaurants to abandon an ingredient
permitted by the FDA.
"This is a legal product," he said. "They're headed down a slippery slope
here."
The Board of Health, which passed the ban unanimously, did give restaurants a
minor break by relaxing the proposed deadline. Restaurants will now be barred
from using most frying oils containing trans fats by July 2007 and will have
another year to eliminate trans fats from all foods.
The ban, which was advocated by health-conscious Mayor Michael Bloomberg,
follows a national requirement beginning this past January that companies list
trans-fat content on food labels. Efforts are also being made to reduce the
trans-fat content of snacks in school vending machines.
It's the danger a bad diet poses to children that has experts the most
worried. It's also what worries Kathy Ramirez, a 26-year-old New York mother who
takes her toddler to McDonalds every week. She approves of the ban and a related
measure passed Tuesday, requiring restaurants that already disclose calorie
counts - mostly chain restaurants -"It's hurting us, all this fat, but the
kids really like it," said Ramirez, pointing to 3-year-old Amber, who'd just
finished her dinner. "It would be better to know what we're getting."
(McDonalds Corp. has been experimenting with healthier oil blends but has not
committed to a full switch yet. Wendy's International Inc. introduced a
zero-trans fat oil in August and Yum Brands Inc.'s KFC and Taco Bell said they
also will cut trans fats from their kitchens.)
At Le Perigord, a tony, sedate French restaurant favored by diplomats from
the nearby United Nations, owner Georges Briguet is a big fan of the trans-fats
ban, and even says he'd consider putting calorie counts on his own upscale
menu - though it's only chains with standardized items that would be
affected.
"In this country there are so many obese people - it really is a
disgrace," Briguet says. "It's important for the health of the population to ban
these artificial fats. When I was growing up in France, my mother never even
gave me a French fry. We don't have a fryer here. We just sautee our potatoes in
some good butter."
The mayor, Briguet added, "is just as responsible for the health of someone
eating the wrong food as for someone who kills himself smoking." Bloomberg
banned smoking in New York's bars and restaurants during his first term.
The public acceptance of that smoking ban, which at the time was a major
source of worry to restaurant owners, shows why food chains should be embracing
the current New York ban, says Tim Zagat, publisher of the hugely popular
Zagat's restaurant guides.
"You can't put lead in your food, right? With trans fats, you're not going to
die as fast, but they are clearly bad for you and people don't even know when
they're eating them," Zagat says.
"If I were a restaurant, I would comply as quickly as I possibly could," he
said. "Some fast-food chains are in the middle of the railroad track right now.
They'd better rethink their business models. This is the next big issue in the
United States."