Remembering Guangzhou in the late 1980s and early 1990s

Through the early 1990’s bicycles remained a popular mode of travel, particularly as buses often were crowded. However ongoing road construction suggested the approaching end of that era. With streets in Guangzhou’s older areas narrow, elevated highways were built, for example, above Renmin Road. Images shot annually, for example on Dongfang Dong Lu, would show steady traffic build-up. There I regularly crossed a pedestrian bridge going to or from the Garden Hotel. My walking route led through semi-open air markets hosting an amazing range of vegetables.

Fascinated with the city’s older areas I would head down to the Pearl River, boarding local ferries crisscrossing the many watercourses. It was a relaxing and incredibly cheap way to observe life on and off the river. Larger passenger vessels frequently set off for lengthy journeys up the West River to Guangxi, while seagoing ships headed downriver, crossing the South China Sea to Hainan.

Unique dining experiences awaited in the local restaurants crowding around older alleys. Authentic Cantonese cuisine proved so different to westernized variations back in Scotland. To discover, to experience, I would visit with friends from the college who would order local specialties. Lanes, often only wide enough for walking, would have market areas specializing in colorful tropical fish or song birds. Traditional streets, such as Beijing Lu, provided many local shopping experiences, including the state-run ‘Xin da Xin’ department store where I often had lunch.

Guangzhou is a city of parks, which with a semi-tropical climate, were in bloom all year. Some offered lakes for boating while others, including the delightful Orchid Garden, had tranquil teahouses where music was played gently on classical seven-stringed guqins. Close to my college, forested Baiyun Shan (White Cloud Mountain) Park offered easily accessible hiking. Beyond lay Guangzhou’s exotic botanical gardens.

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