I can think of nothing more depressing than being trapped in Beijing's traffic. But, if I happen to be stuck alongside a taxi driver constantly offering opinions about local attractions and reflections on hot events, my depression is soon eased.

It is a widely acknowledged fact in town that Beijing has, perhaps, the country's most talkative and knowledgeable taxi drivers.

Nevertheless, they don't usually impress at first sight. They are required to dress in a uniform consisting of a khaki shirts and navy blue trousers that unfortunately often dim their vitality. Some wear a pair of cloth shoes that, along with often unshaven faces, somehow make them look aged and gloomy.

They talk in, I would say, plainly crafted voices, loud and rude. But the conversation often turns out to appeal to my appreciation for their dramatic Beijing tones. And more admirable than their voices is what they say - their amazingly wide knowledge.

In one of my recent taxi experiences, the driver, a man in his 40s of obvious solemnity, suddenly started to talk when the car slowly passed the Lama Temple.

"Before the Lama Temple was built, the space served as the location of something like the ministry of internal affairs in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Later, a palace arose as the residence of one of the princes during the reign of Emperor Kangxi," he said with a decent and professional voice resembling that of a well-trained tour guide.

"It has a history of over 300 years, quite worth visiting," he continued. It was not only his knowledge of history but also his sincere respect for the cultural heritage of his hometown that impressed me.

Growing up in the glory of a historical city, Beijing's taxi drivers have been subconsciously educated to become, more or less, history specialists. At the same time, they keep pace with the city's tremendous development and their sense of modernity as metropolitan citizens also surprises.

Last weekend, while I was discussing with two friends which KTV to go to, the driver, in his late 40s and devoid of the look of a nightclub-goer, surprised us with his personal analysis of KTVs in town.

He offered a striking list of both the most fair-priced and the most luxurious singing places in town with bonus information about which locations were the most trendy and which catered to common tastes.

When I looked at him doubtfully, he said with good humor: "Trust me. I started singing before you were born. I am especially good at singing Bel-Canto."

Of course I trusted him like I always do - I trust them whole-heartedly when they offer whatever useful instructions.

Whenever and wherever I step into a taxi in Beijing and say the destination, the driver will ask me: "Sir, which way do you prefer to go?"

After learning I am a non-native, he will do me the favor of picking the quickest and smoothest route and painstakingly explain why. That is the pleasure of taking a taxi in Beijing - feeling exclusively respected.

Moreover, the drivers often start with a respectful sense of humor that effectively clears the beginning embarrassment or boredom.

Like, once, after I just settled down in a taxi, the driver shouted to me with unexpected hospitality: "Are you ready?" It was as if he was about to drive a roller coaster, but he had good reason.

"I just want to make sure you have safely and comfortably settled down," he said. And, of course, that worked well.

Every now and then when I recall those lovely taxi drivers in Beijing, I think about the warmth they share. They may look shabby at first glance but their appearance is quickly outshone by their amiable and obliging personalities.

China Daily

(China Daily 08/30/2010)